Cev za dovod zraka

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V avtu imam še vedno originalno cev za zrak (air intake tube, tista reč, ki dovaja zrak v airbox), vendar je zaradi starosti (10 let) precej krhka in mestoma počena. To je slabo, saj prihaja v airbox vroč zrak, kar se negativno pozna na moči. Okej, stvar je taka. Cev za zrak je iz enega takega krhkega materiala (nekaj med umetno maso in papirjem, nimam pojma kaj). Ima pa notri eno belo žico, sumim, da gre za senzor temperature. To je zdaj zoprno, ker če vzamem kakšno drugo cev, potem tega senzorja ne bo notri. Ampak vseeno, kakšne so kaj rešitve? Želim obdržati airbox, le cev bi rad drugo. Kolikor sem gledal po netu, se dobi kovinske cevi s silikonskimi koleni, kar je najdražja rešitev. Potem so silikonske cevi, tudi niso poceni. Papirnata cev v neki alu folji ali kaj vem kaj je še najcenejša. Ve kdo še za kakšne alternative in predvsem kje v Slo bi lahko dobil te cevi?

[Guest Brumer]

V avtu imam še vedno originalno cev za zrak (air intake tube, tista reč, ki dovaja zrak v airbox), vendar je zaradi starosti (10 let) precej krhka in mestoma počena. To je slabo, saj prihaja v airbox vroč zrak, kar se negativno pozna na moči. Okej, stvar je taka. Cev za zrak je iz enega takega krhkega materiala (nekaj med umetno maso in papirjem, nimam pojma kaj). Ima pa notri eno belo žico, sumim, da gre za senzor temperature. To je zdaj zoprno, ker če vzamem kakšno drugo cev, potem tega senzorja ne bo notri. Ampak vseeno, kakšne so kaj rešitve? Želim obdržati airbox, le cev bi rad drugo. Kolikor sem gledal po netu, se dobi kovinske cevi s silikonskimi koleni, kar je najdražja rešitev. Potem so silikonske cevi, tudi niso poceni. Papirnata cev v neki alu folji ali kaj vem kaj je še najcenejša. Ve kdo še za kakšne alternative in predvsem kje v Slo bi lahko dobil te cevi?

Moral bi malo natančneje napisat za kateri avto tip,model to potrebuješ fi cevi in katera cev je to.Namreč ponavadi so dve in sicer ena za vroč in ena za mrzel zrak.Namerč za dovod zunanjega zraka to cev sploh ni nujno da jo namontiraš za vroč zrak pa mora biti pozimi montirana sicer ti v difuzorju lahko zmrzuje že pri zunanji temperaturi +5 stopinj in ti avto še posebno pri visokih hitrostih crkne po določenem času, ko avto stoji ca 5 min spet vžge in se nemoteno pelješ naprej.

Kar setiče senzorja ta ni nikoli montiran na tej cevi ampak je vedno v kakšni vmesni plastiči cevi ali v samem air boxu,sicer pa vidiš po kablih, če je povezana z instalacijo!!!Aluminijaste rebraste raztegljive cevi dobiš npr. v metalki ali v Merkurju imajo različne dimenzije ali pa v kaki avto trgovini!

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Moral bi malo natančneje napisat za kateri avto tip,model to potrebuješ fi cevi in katera cev je to.Namreč ponavadi so dve in sicer ena za vroč in ena za mrzel zrak.Namerč za dovod zunanjega zraka to cev sploh ni nujno da jo namontiraš za vroč zrak pa mora biti pozimi montirana sicer ti v difuzorju lahko zmrzuje že pri zunanji temperaturi +5 stopinj in ti avto še posebno pri visokih hitrostih crkne po določenem času, ko avto stoji ca 5 min spet vžge in se nemoteno pelješ naprej.

Kar setiče senzorja ta ni nikoli montiran na tej cevi ampak je vedno v kakšni vmesni plastiči cevi ali v samem air boxu,sicer pa vidiš po kablih, če je povezana z instalacijo!!!Aluminijaste rebraste raztegljive cevi dobiš npr. v metalki ali v Merkurju imajo različne dimenzije ali pa v kaki avto trgovini!

Brumer, najlepša hvala. To je to. Bom pogledal v Merkur. Naj ti ob tem odgovorim še na ostala vprašanja. Avta (znamka, model, letnik) nisem navedel, saj so me zanimale splošne informacije glede nabave cevi, specifikacije bom že sam izbrskal. To, da sta ločeni cevi za vroč in mrzel zrak mi je novo. Morda nimava v mislih iste cevi. Jaz govorim o tisti, ki vodi hladen zrak nekje izpod pokrova (npr. tam pri maski) do zračne komore (in filtra). Ko odpreš pokrov motorja, takoj opaziš, takšna debela cev. Skratka, to rabim, saj bi v nasprotnem primeru - če je ne bi namontiral ali če je poškodovana - v komoro (airbox) prihajal vroč zrak, tega pa ne želim. Tudi tisto s senzorjem sem preveril. Dejansko je bila v cevi navita bela žica, ki sem jo potem prerezal, da bi videl ali gre le za žičnato oporo, ali pa je notri kovinski material. Izkazalo se je, da je šlo zgolj za žičnato oporo cevi za dovod zraka (air intake tube). Tako da zdaj bo na vrsti Merkur. Me pa veseli, da si vsaj ti dal nek konstruktiven odgovor, ker sem se že bal, da bo vse tiho:)

[sesir]

Brumer, najlepša hvala. To je to. Me pa veseli, da si vsaj ti dal nek konstruktiven odgovor, ker sem se že bal, da bo vse tiho:)

In seveda mu je eden že pripopal minus!

Sem nekaj dni nazaj bral,da ti menjava komplet "airbox" za kovinskega z filtrom "da" 5 konjev Če pa je not še "ventilator"(supercharger) pa od 15 do 60konjev

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Sem nekaj dni nazaj bral,da ti menjava komplet "airbox" za kovinskega z filtrom "da" 5 konjev Če pa je not še "ventilator"(supercharger) pa od 15 do 60konjev

Ne vem kje si to bral, sklepam, da na tem ali kakšnem drugem avtomobilskem forumu. Informacije so in niso točne. Pri menjavi airboxa + filtra + cevi za dotok zraka gre v bistvu za to, da v motor pride čimbolj hladen zrak, saj je hladen zrak bolj gost od vročega, ima zato več kisika in tudi omogoča močnejšo eksplozijo, kar poveča moč motorja. Če menjaš le filter (papirnatega za bombažnega k&n) lahko pridobiš kakšnega konja. Bolj gladka in širša cev za dotok zraka prav tako lahko pripomore h kakšnemu konju. Tisti komplet, ki se mu reče v angleščini "cold air intake kit" pa v bistvu odstrani celo zračno komoro (airbox). Na začetku kovinske cevi je konusni filter, tako da gre zrak potem po cevi neposredno v motor. Kako točno je to rešeno, žal ne vem. Tisto bi lahko doprineslo kakšnih 5 konjev, a je gotovo še nekaj dejavnikov, ki bi jih bilo potrebno upoštevati - recimo pri avtih z malo kubaturo bi močnejše eksplozije privedle do večjega segrevanja motorja, kar ni dobro. Supercharger ni ravno "ventilator", ki bi se ga kar tako vgradilo kot nek kit. Ponavadi je serijsko (pri nekaterih avtih) namontiran na vrhu motorja (on avto od Mad Maxa ga ima). V njem sta dva polžasta valja, ki ju poganja - mislim vsaj - jermen ali veriga z odmične gredi. Tista polžasta valja nato potiskata zrak v motor, podobno kot turbina (turbocharger), ki pa jo poganjajo izpušni plini. Več zraka v valju pomeni spet močnejšo eksplozijo mešanice, kar navrže več moči. Ampak montiranje superchargerja bi najbrž stalo več kot menjava celega motorja z močnejšim modelom (npr. iz 1.4 na 2.0) in še pokrov motorja bi bilo potrebno rezati na sredini. Izgledalo bi pa ql, to ne dvomim:) Bral sem nekje na naših forumih o nekih ventilatorjih, ki naj bi jih vgrajevali, ampak tisto je po mojem skromnem mnenju lari fari, vsekakor pa ne bo dalo več kot 1 do 2 konjev (če sploh!). No, kot rečeno, supercharger je druga reč in dejansko precej poveča moč, ampak so stroški preveliki, da bi se kakorkoli splačalo.

[sesir]

Ne vem kje si to bral, sklepam, da na tem ali kakšnem drugem avtomobilskem forumu. Informacije so in niso točne. Ampak montiranje superchargerja bi najbrž stalo več kot menjava celega motorja z močnejšim modelom (npr. iz 1.4 na 2.0) in še pokrov motorja bi bilo potrebno rezati na sredini. Bral sem nekje na naših forumih o nekih ventilatorjih, ki naj bi jih vgrajevali, ampak tisto je po mojem skromnem mnenju lari fari, vsekakor pa ne bo dalo več kot 1 do 2 konjev (če sploh!). No, kot rečeno, supercharger je druga reč in dejansko precej poveča moč, ampak so stroški preveliki, da bi se kakorkoli splačalo.

Nisem bral na forumu ampak na eni Ameriški strani kjer prodajajo "vso"dodatno opremo.In tam je pisalo,da doda komplet menjava,kot si jo opisal že sama 5konjev.Dodatek "ventilator pa tudi doda še kot si napisal okoli 2konja.Če pa je v to namesto ventilatorja supercharger pa jih doda med 15 in 60.

Sam supercharger v Ameriki sploh ni drag!Pa tud luknje ti ni potrebno rezat.Seveda odvisno od modela avta kot tudi moči,ki jo boš-želiš pridobiti.Recimo supercharger v kompletu z "airbox",chip z obema senzorjema(zrak,plini) in ne navaden kot se prodaja pri nas,plus elektronika (menjavanje s polnim plinom,launch control,..)stane nekje toliko kot pri nas le nova turbina

[sesir]

This section is all about how your new electric supercharger works. What it does, how it does it and, most importantly, what it means for you, are all right here.

•The electric supercharger is a motor-driven fan that pumps more air into your engine to help produce more power.

•The supercharger produces 3 psi of power to give your car a boost of power at full throttle.

•Pushing the throttle to the floor will activate the supercharger and cause the metal fan to spin up to its full 29,000 rpm in 1/10th of a second.

•Unlike most belt driven superchargers, this electric supercharger does not take power away from your car; it simply adds more instantly.

•The supercharger can be activated by a button that you can mount in your car, so that whenever you feel the need to have more power, you can just push the button.

•With the supercharger activated, your engine will produce more power and torque and help pin you to the seat when you punch the throttle.

YEAR VEHICLE BASE HP HP WITH SUPERCHARGER % GAIN

'06 HONDA FIT 120 HP 139 HP +16%

'02 NISSAN TITAN 305 HP 351 HP +15%

'01 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER 145 HP 169 HP +17%

'99 DODGE DAKOTA 230 HP 269 HP +17%

'03 FORD FOCUS SVT 170 HP 204 HP +20%

'96 BMW M3 300 HP 363 HP +21%

'94 VW JETTA VR6 180 HP 214 HP +19%

'02 CADILLAC ESCALADE 346 HP 422 HP +22%

'95 ACURA INTEGRA 150 HP 170 HP +14%

'02 FORD MUSTANG GT 270 HP 324 HP +20%

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Nisem bral na forumu ampak na eni Ameriški strani kjer prodajajo "vso"dodatno opremo.In tam je pisalo,da doda komplet menjava,kot si jo opisal že sama 5konjev.Dodatek "ventilator pa tudi doda še kot si napisal okoli 2konja.Če pa je v to namesto ventilatorja supercharger pa jih doda med 15 in 60.

Sam supercharger v Ameriki sploh ni drag!Pa tud luknje ti ni potrebno rezat.Seveda odvisno od modela avta kot tudi moči,ki jo boš-želiš pridobiti.Recimo supercharger v kompletu z "airbox",chip z obema senzorjema(zrak,plini) in ne navaden kot se prodaja pri nas,plus elektronika (menjavanje s polnim plinom,launch control,..)stane nekje toliko kot pri nas le nova turbina

Prosim, če lahko pripopaš link do strani, kjer si gledal električni supercharger. Vem sicer, da obstajajo, a si nekako ne predstavljam najbolje, od kje naj bi dobili dovolj elektrike. Ker jo - kolikor sem bral - potrebujejo zelo veliko, več kot jo lahko pridela alternator v avtu. Ampak mogoče se motim. Se bom z zanimanjem ogledal stran, ko boš posredoval link.

P.S. Sicer pa predlagam moderatorju, da odpre posebno temo "superchargerji za avte" ali kaj takšnega.

Popravljeno November 27, 2009. Popravil Avatar

[sesir]

Prosim, če lahko pripopaš link do strani, kjer si gledal električni supercharger. Vem sicer, da obstajajo, a si nekako ne predstavljam najbolje, od kje naj bi dobili dovolj elektrike. Ker jo - kolikor sem bral - potrebujejo zelo veliko, več kot jo lahko pridela alternator v avtu. Ampak mogoče se motim. Se bom z zanimanjem ogledal stran, ko boš posredoval link.

P.S. Sicer pa predlagam moderatorju, da odpre posebno temo "superchargerji za avte" ali kaj takšnega.

Link na P.M. sam,da ga spet najdem-ta trenutek ne najdem Ker imam med replikami-polno tega!Ker sem link najdu na enemu od UK forumov o replikah!

"elektrike" porabijo res veliko!Zato pa so ti vezani direkt na akumulator in ne preko alternatorja!No vseeno,tudi preko alternatorja bi naj to pobralo okoli 1-2konja!

Tisti superchargerji,ki so "vezani"na jermen pa "poberejo še več konjev"

O teh,ko jz pišem so v bistvu "RAM SUPERCHARGER"

Kak vzameš V bistvu se še vedno govori le o cevi za dovod zraka

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"elektrike" porabijo res veliko!Zato pa so ti vezani direkt na akumulator in ne preko alternatorja!No vseeno,tudi preko alternatorja bi naj to pobralo okoli 1-2konja!

Tisti superchargerji,ki so "vezani"na jermen pa "poberejo še več konjev"

O teh,ko jz pišem so v bistvu "RAM SUPERCHARGER"

Ampak tole ni logično. Reciva, da imaš "normalen" supercharger, ki ga poganja odmična gred (mehanska energija) in "električni" supercharger, ki ga poganja akumulator (električna energija). Če oba ustvarita enako veliko moč za potiskanje zraka v motor, potem najbrž porabita enako veliko energije. Mehaničen jo dobi neposredno iz motorja. Električen pa mora isto količino energije dobiti iz akumulatorja, ta pa se polni iz dinama/alternatorja, ki ga poganja motor. Skratka, v tem drugem primeru imaš najprej mehanično energijo motorja, ki jo alternator spremeni v električno, ta gre v akumulator, od tam v supercharger, kjer se spet spremeni v mehanično. Izgube so pri tem večje, ker gre za več sprememb oblike energije. Sploh pa če bi bilo to tako optimalno, bi ja serijsko proizvajalci vgrajevali električne superchargerje?

[sesir]

Ampak tole ni logično. Izgube so pri tem večje, ker gre za več sprememb oblike energije. Sploh pa če bi bilo to tako optimalno, bi ja serijsko proizvajalci vgrajevali električne superchargerje?

"Vem" samo kar sem prebral po raznih forumih in straneh,kjer se te stvari prodajajo.Spoznam se pa ne neki!Imaš P.M sem našel

Ne vem,če!Ker potem bi airbox tud že v osnovi dali odprt

1.Why does the RAM only come on only at FULL-THROTTLE (Wide-Open-Throttle), and why WOULDN'T I want it on all the time, OR at least to come on at part throttle?

Answer: The word throttle means "Choke." Any time the throttle is partially open, it is "choking" the engine and creating a variable pressure drop (that's its job). You do not want to engage the RAM to generate pressure when the throttle body is restricting it. If it came on under part throttle, the choking action of the throttle would just remove any gains in pressure created by the RAM. Normally, If you want more HP when you are at part throttle, you just press further down on the gas pedal to open the throttle-body, and let more air into your engine. It is only when your throttle is wide-open, and your engine is taking all of the air it is capable of (equal to the total displacement of your engine - CC's or Cubic inches - minus the drop in air pressure created by inherent restrictions in your intake system) that you can realize any benefits from a pressure generating device like the RAM. When you press the gas pedal to the floor, the RAM engages and gives the added air and HP you need. REMEMBER... THIS IS INDEPENDENT OF ENGINE RPM! IF YOU FLOOR YOUR GAS PEDAL AT 2000 RPM, YOU GET FULL BOOST AT 2000 RPM. This is the reason for the waste gates and relief valves with turbos and superchargers. They run continuously, but the pressure is bled off until the total power of what could be produced through normal aspiration is exceeded. (Manifold pressure above ambient or in other words, above atmosphere) Also, the RAM requires very high current, so regardless, it is necessary to use it only during full throttle conditions as to not tax your electrical system, and not cause excessive heat or wear at the heart of the RAM... the high-power electric motor. Having the RAM engage too early and too often when it is not needed, will lead to premature aging and failure of the RAM device. When used and installed properly, the RAM will last for many years, and only require service after thousands of hours of operation.

2.How does it work?

Answer: The RAM is an electrically powered forced air system that uses a custom designed, purpose-built electric motor that uses over 833 WATTS to drive an axial flow fan to slightly pressurize the intake air while it rids the inlet and filter box of most all restriction. It is designed to operate only at full throttle, since this is the only time when the throttle butterfly-valve is fully open and out of the way of your engine's intake. By slightly pressurizing the air available to your engine intake system, the air becomes more dense, and is matched with more fuel producing the increased HP to the wheels.

3.Will my fuel system respond to the increased density and flow of air?

Answer: Yes, the small increases of air density are well within the limits of most modern fuel injection fuel system, basically in the same way your engine would respond if you were traveling at high altitude where you loose HP. Here the fuel air metering system is able to respond by sensing the change in density via the mass air flow sensor, air flow meter, or manifold pressure sensor, and keep mixture levels correct.

4.Is it difficult to install?

Answer:The RAM can typically be installed in less than 1 HOUR! It comes complete with instructions, wiring, adapter hose, fan inlet, the RAM, 50 amp relay, and micro-switch that mounts near your accelerator control linkage. (Other locations are also possible for micro switch position such as at the gas pedal for some of the newest cars with "throttle-by-wire" electronic throttle position control)

5.How much HP gain can I expect?

Answer: Gains on stock 4 cylinder to heavily modified 8 cylinder engines have yielded 4-6% increases. That's 5-15HP depending on your base flywheel HP. If you are removing a stock air-box, gains for cool air tubes and cone filters are up to 5HP by themselves. The RAM with its 5-15 HP adds to ALL OTHER MODIFICATIONS, so with an intake tube will give over 20 HP of total gain for the RAM + intake system.

6.How is the RAM different than a supercharger or Turbocharger?

Answer:The RAM is a distant cousin of the full blown turbo or supercharging system which employs a centrifugal impeller that must run all the time. They have to produce matched engine airflow, with high-pressure air compression (4 to 15 PSI is normal). This requires a tremendous amount of HP to drive the device. For example the airflow needed for a 2.5-liter engine at 6000 RPM is 240 CFM. At only 6 PSI, you would need 10 to 15 HP just to create this type of supercharging. Belts driven by the engine or a turbine driven off the engines exhaust gases can produce this type of power. The RAM produces a low-level 1 PSI (1.7 PSI for the Super RAM). The RAM is very efficient in moving lots of air flow (CFM) at small pressures, where traditional turbo/superchargers are very good at making pressure, but need extreme speeds to match flow rates of most engines.

7.Don't Most cars have ram air already?

Answer: No, most manufactures have done everything to make inlet ducts to get air into the engine. The problem is that because of the path the air has to take, by the time it gets to your throttle body, the air doesn't have enough pressure and speed to add any ram pressure to your intake system. Even at speeds of 80 mph, no ram effects can be measured with an almost perfect inlet system (i.e. less than .08psi). At 160 mph , that pressure goes up to .36psi., that's it!! Horsepower robbing vacuum in most air boxes is present due all sorts of restrictions as we cant have dragster style hood scoops on street cars because we would not be able to see over them!

8.What causes most of the intake restriction, and how do you measure how much you have?

Answer: Filters, inlet turns, diameter reductions and obstructions of the intake system create pressure drops depending on the restriction, resulting in vacuum in the air box (less dense air). Using a sensitive pressure gauge, this vacuum can be measured under W.O.T. either statically on the dyno, or on the track as we did.

9.What is the difference in drawing engine heated air versus cool outside air? Answer: Every 40 degrees makes a difference of 6% HP. The pressure would have to rise 1PSI for this gain in HP. Conversely, the air pressure could drop 1PSI at altitude and the losses would be similar.

10.If the RAM produces a positive pressure in the air box, how does that relate to HP gains?

Answer:AIR PRESSURE GAIN/LOSS DUE TO ALTITUDE CHANGE: In the same way that you loose HP when you travel up in altitude (the air is less dense at higher altitude), you gain HP when dropping in altitude (pressure increases at lower altitudes). For example, if you start at sea-level: Climb up to 2000 feet elevation, and the air is 1PSI LESS DENSE than at sea level (on average). Drop down by 2000 feet, and the air is 1PSI MORE DENSE. 1 PSI gain is roughly a 7% increase in air-density (Typical Air-Pressure at Sea-Level is 14.7 PSI). AIR PRESSURE GAIN/LOSS DUE TO TEMPERATURE CHANGE: You gain HP from adding a "Cold-Air-Intake" because a typical "Cold-Air-Intake lowers the temperature of the air reaching the intake manifold by an average of 10 degrees. A 10 degree drop in temperature is ONLY A 2% INCREASE IN AIR-DENSITY, so adding the function of removing intake restriction, and a cold-air intake can provide roughly 2% HP increase. The RAM provides a 7% INCREASE IN AIR-DENSITY. This is where the RAM's 5% average HP increase comes from.

11.Does the RAM cause restriction when it is not on?

Answer: No. Since the RAM is over 3.8 inches inside diameter, even with the motor in the center, and its axial blade design, the RAM flows the equivalent to a 3.1 inch diameter free-flow intake tube. Also at part-throttle conditions, this not a factor because the flow rates under part throttle condition are much lower as well. We have dyno'ed the RAM when mounted but NOT ENERGIZED at full throttle and measured no losses (see dyno results page for this dyno example). Many people also have seen actual HP gains by just putting a static version of the RAM in line with the intake system claiming better atomization of fuel and air. We have not verified these gains, but if they are real, the RAM should be an order of magnitude more effective in HP gains and equal in gas mileage efficiency gains as any of the existing static swirling devices.

12.I have a very efficient intake system now, can RAM still help?

Answer: Yes, it makes what you have better. Preliminary tests have shown the best results on modified intakes with aftermarket intakes and filters. The RAM adds to any other modifications you have made, or will make to your engine (including addition of a turbocharger or belt driven supercharger).

13.I have a stock air box, will RAM still work?

Answer:YES! It also is designed to bolt on to the intake of your existing stock air box with little or no modification and the same 4-6% gains *(except late model Fords, Audis, BMWs, Nissans, and Mazdas equipped with Mass-Flow Sensors (MFS)).

14.I have an after market intake tube. Will the RAM mount to it?

Answer: YES. By using the version of RAM with its integral cone filter (RAM-FILTER), you mount the RAM directly to the intake tube leading to your air flow sensor or MAP sensor. By using the RAM with adapters on both sides (RAM-INLINE), you can mount the RAM in place of a section of your intake tube for cold-air tubes and some Mass-Air Flow equipped cars.

15.Is their a chance of the RAM damaging my engine?

Answer: No, the RAM system is designed to work with any internal combustion engine, new or old. The low level of boost is safe for all engines and will not provide any major additional stresses on the engine that wouldn't already be happening at full-throttle operation. If anything was to enter the fan and damage it , a metal safety screen is included on the exit of the fan to assure no components enter your engine... no matter what the event... ever.

16.What is the life expectancy of the RAM device, and does it require maintenance?

Answer: The only moving parts are the instrument quality rare earth electric motor which is rated for over 800 hours before recommended service (brush replacement) and a metal impeller. It is highly resistant to heat and has sealed no maintenance ball bearings. Because of the low duty cycle (on the race track it is only on for 20 to 40 seconds a lap depending on the road course such as Laguna Seca or Sears Point where testing is done), the RAM unit should outlast your engine. We have many RAMs in the field since 1998 that are still going strong.

17.18. How quickly does the RAM spool up to max boost pressure?

Answer:The highly balanced RAM spools up to 25,300 RPM in less than 100 ms (1/10 of a second). This is due to its very lightweight and strong construction.

18.How will the increase HP from the RAM help my quarter mile drag times?

Answer:The 4-6% HP gains are roughly equivalent to 1 or 2 tenths of a second for 0-60, and 2 or 3 tenths of a second in the quarter mile. This may not seem like much but, at the finish line, at speeds of 100 mph (146 feet per second), 1 tenth of a second is 14.6 feet, or roughly a car length. If you beat someone by one car length, that race wasn't even close!

19.Will the RAM work on my Diesel engine?

Answer: Yes! The RAM works on all internal combustion engines (Gasoline, Natural Gas, Diesel, etc.). Since the RAM is just providing additional air-density to the intake, your engine management system will automatically adjust to provide the appropriate amount of fuel and provide the additional HP gain expected from your RAM installation.

20.Will the RAM work on my Motorcycle engine?

Answer: Yes! The RAM works on all internal combustion engines (car, motorcycle, ATV, Boat, etc.). You just have to make sure that there will be enough room to mount the RAM in the compact area available on a motorcycle. The RAM will work with your carbureted engine (see next answer for considerations for carburetors). However, 2-stroke engines with simple membrane style carburetors will not respond to the RAM pressure. Your carburetor must have a "float-bowl" for correct fuel delivery. Also, if your fuel delivery is "gravity feed" type, you will need to add a small fuel pump to provide pressurized fuel delivery to the carburetor at a minimum of 2psi.

21.Will the RAM work on a carbureted engine?

Answer: Yes! The RAM works with carbureted engines. You just have to make sure you follow the following guidelines: An RAM-FILTER should be placed on the end of the sealed intake tube that feeds the carb with pressurized air. The area between the RAM thrust and the carb will be a pressurized area, and this area will need to be linked with a tube to the float bowl vent of the carb to equalize the pressure between the air intake and the float bowls to assure proper fuel delivery (please contact us by e-mail if you would like a picture diagram of this setup, as we have done this many times with other customers).

NOTE: 2-stroke engines with simple membrane style carburetors will not respond to the RAM pressure, as this style carburetor delivers fuel based on vacuum measured by the membrane, and there is no method to equalize the pressure to make this style of carburetor work properly with the RAM. Your carburetor must have a "float-bowl" for correct fuel delivery. Also, if your fuel delivery is "gravity feed" type (like on motorcycles with gas tank above the engine), you will need to add a small fuel pump to provide pressurized fuel delivery to the carburetor at a minimum of 2psi.

[danci1973]

Ampak tole ni logično. Reciva, da imaš "normalen" supercharger, ki ga poganja odmična gred (mehanska energija) in "električni" supercharger, ki ga poganja akumulator (električna energija). Če oba ustvarita enako veliko moč za potiskanje zraka v motor, potem najbrž porabita enako veliko energije. Mehaničen jo dobi neposredno iz motorja. Električen pa mora isto količino energije dobiti iz akumulatorja, ta pa se polni iz dinama/alternatorja, ki ga poganja motor. Skratka, v tem drugem primeru imaš najprej mehanično energijo motorja, ki jo alternator spremeni v električno, ta gre v akumulator, od tam v supercharger, kjer se spet spremeni v mehanično. Izgube so pri tem večje, ker gre za več sprememb oblike energije. Sploh pa če bi bilo to tako optimalno, bi ja serijsko proizvajalci vgrajevali električne superchargerje?

Alternator itak nima nobenih šans napajaat električni supercharger - 2,5l NA motor pri 5000 obratih vsesa dobrih 6000 litrov zraka na minuto. Če bi zrak 'tlačil' v motor, bi to bilo še bistveno več. Za primer - pretok 12000 litrov na minuto pri 0,5 bara zahteva cca. 15kW elektromotor, kar pri 12V pomeni 1250A...

Za elektro supercharger zato potrebuješ ločene baterije, ki pa trajajo samo ene 10-15s... Tako da so ti supercharger-ji kvečjemu nadomestek za NOS. En tak dokaj realen primerek najdeš tukaj.

Seveda pa je trg prepravljen s poceni kvazi-elektro-superchargerji, ki pa kvečjemu zmanjšajo moč, ker so na poti pretoku zraka...

D.

[danci1973]

"Vem" samo kar sem prebral po raznih forumih in straneh,kjer se te stvari prodajajo.Spoznam se pa ne neki!Imaš P.M sem našel

Ne vem,če!Ker potem bi airbox tud že v osnovi dali odprt

1.Why does the RAM only come on only at FULL-THROTTLE (Wide-Open-Throttle), and why WOULDN'T I want it on all the time, OR at least to come on at part throttle?

Answer: The word throttle means "Choke." Any time the throttle is partially open, it is "choking" the engine and creating a variable pressure drop (that's its job). You do not want to engage the RAM to generate pressure when the throttle body is restricting it. If it came on under part throttle, the choking action of the throttle would just remove any gains in pressure created by the RAM. Normally, If you want more HP when you are at part throttle, you just press further down on the gas pedal to open the throttle-body, and let more air into your engine. It is only when your throttle is wide-open, and your engine is taking all of the air it is capable of (equal to the total displacement of your engine - CC's or Cubic inches - minus the drop in air pressure created by inherent restrictions in your intake system) that you can realize any benefits from a pressure generating device like the RAM. When you press the gas pedal to the floor, the RAM engages and gives the added air and HP you need. REMEMBER... THIS IS INDEPENDENT OF ENGINE RPM! IF YOU FLOOR YOUR GAS PEDAL AT 2000 RPM, YOU GET FULL BOOST AT 2000 RPM. This is the reason for the waste gates and relief valves with turbos and superchargers. They run continuously, but the pressure is bled off until the total power of what could be produced through normal aspiration is exceeded. (Manifold pressure above ambient or in other words, above atmosphere) Also, the RAM requires very high current, so regardless, it is necessary to use it only during full throttle conditions as to not tax your electrical system, and not cause excessive heat or wear at the heart of the RAM... the high-power electric motor. Having the RAM engage too early and too often when it is not needed, will lead to premature aging and failure of the RAM device. When used and installed properly, the RAM will last for many years, and only require service after thousands of hours of operation.

...

Tale eRAM je po moje primer 'kvazi' variante...

D.

[sesir]

Tale eRAM je po moje primer 'kvazi' variante...

Ja... po moje tud ni glih nek višek.Neki pa sigurno,da!Vsa stvar je veliko manj komplicirana kot iz tvojega linka.Mislim,da v kompletu vsega naštetega zato ceno pa bi znal biti kar pravi nakup

Kolk pa je ta poraba 833W al kaj piše?Bi to zmogel polnit alternator ali ostaja isti problem,kot pri tistih iz tvojega linka?

[danci1973]

Ja... po moje tud ni glih nek višek.Neki pa sigurno,da!Vsa stvar je veliko manj komplicirana kot iz tvojega linka.Mislim,da v kompletu vsega naštetega zato ceno pa bi znal biti kar pravi nakup

Kolk pa je ta poraba 833W al kaj piše?Bi to zmogel polnit alternator ali ostaja isti problem,kot pri tistih iz tvojega linka?

833W pri 13,8V pomeni 60A - alternatorji to v glavnem zmorejo - (na mojem avtu zmore 90A)...

Meni so sumljivi predvsem zaradi preveč 'splošnih' obljub... Npr. - 1 PSI pritiska ponavadi pomeni cca. 8% dodatnega navora. In če eRAM zmore 1 PSI pri polnih obratih, ko motor 'požira' ogromno zraka, bi pričakoval, da bo pri nižjih obratih zmogel več pritiska in bi prirastek navora bil pri teh obratih večji.

Če pa pogledam njihove grafe, je povečanje navora po celem območju približno enako...

D.

[k0ci]

Ja... po moje tud ni glih nek višek.Neki pa sigurno,da!Vsa stvar je veliko manj komplicirana kot iz tvojega linka.Mislim,da v kompletu vsega naštetega zato ceno pa bi znal biti kar pravi nakup

Kolk pa je ta poraba 833W al kaj piše?Bi to zmogel polnit alternator ali ostaja isti problem,kot pri tistih iz tvojega linka?

daj kako sliko tegale ki porabi 833W, ker bi res rad videl to čudo....če je tole res bi moral bit napajalni kabel vsaj 25mm2, da tole normalno deluje, po vsej verjetnosti je pa navadna žica, kot za zvočnike

[danci1973]

daj kako sliko tegale ki porabi 833W, ker bi res rad videl to čudo....če je tole res bi moral bit napajalni kabel vsaj 25mm2, da tole normalno deluje, po vsej verjetnosti je pa navadna žica, kot za zvočnike

Itaq...

D.

[k0ci]

no kot se mi je zdelo, tole je kvečjemu 2,5mm2, ne pa 25

[thumper]

tole mi zgleda tako kot...nevem no... ampak kot da si je človek namontiral majhen generator , katerega vetrnico vrti zrak ,ki ga motor sesa vase...he,he

[sesir]

tole mi zgleda tako kot...nevem no... ampak kot da si je človek namontiral majhen generator , katerega vetrnico vrti zrak ,ki ga motor sesa vase...he,he

Saj tak je :krneki:

To deluje kolk se mi vidi nekak na podobnem sistemu kot raim air na motorjih.Sam kar tle umetno ustvarjaš veter :unsure:

Zdaj pa,če pravijo,da je bilo naprimer na R1 04 172konjev z raim air 180konjev,pri mislim 200km/h.Se pravi bi moral biti ta dotok zraka ves čas takšen,da bi pridobil 9konjev.Pa še to na ojnici in ne na gumah,kot pravijo tle!Ali pa to res tako močno piha oziroma vleče not zrak??

[Avatar]

Saj tak je :krneki:

To deluje kolk se mi vidi nekak na podobnem sistemu kot raim air na motorjih.Sam kar tle umetno ustvarjaš veter :unsure:

Zdaj pa,če pravijo,da je bilo naprimer na R1 04 172konjev z raim air 180konjev,pri mislim 200km/h.Se pravi bi moral biti ta dotok zraka ves čas takšen,da bi pridobil 9konjev.Pa še to na ojnici in ne na gumah,kot pravijo tle!Ali pa to res tako močno piha oziroma vleče not zrak??

Ram air da opazen učinek šele pri 200+ kmh, ko je hitrost zraka dovolj velika, da se ustvari večji pritisk. Pri pridobitvah moči je bolj ustrezno govoriti o procentih, ker če ima motor v izhodišču 50 konjev, jih z ram airom ne bo dobil 9 ampak kvečjemu 3. In ko smo že pri ram airu: šoba za vstop zraka mora biti zunaj, na odprtem, tako da zrak neposredno vdira vanjo - tako imajo narejeni nekateri športni motocikli. Konfiguracija na sliki pa je pod pokrovom motorja, zato je učinek ram air nemogoč (torej večji dotok zraka zaradi hitrosti vozila).

Nekako se mi zdi, da tale "ventilatorček" na sliki bolj kot ne meša zrak, ne pa ga vleče ali celo stiska.