Yamaha MT 09 Tracer 2015 in GT 2018

[Zivnorc]

pred 15 minutami, krucymucy pravi:

Sej smo se peljali skupaj a ne.

Na cestaku se ne morem vozit, probal veckrat pa ne gre. Ne vem zakaj bi se silil.

... da.... vem, kako se pelješ... ....

....in ko te gledam...in poslušam tole, se mi zdi, da bi morali bavarci kopirati Guzzi mašino... v bistvu samo cilindra postaviti na "V-BOXER"     ..... da ne bi s cilindri ružil po tleh...   

 

[DAMI34]

pred 13 urami, krucymucy pravi:

ok.

kaj pa obcutis? Pa pomisli najprej, ni potrebno takoj odgovorit.

ne bom odgovoril, ker se mi ne da. Vsak ve zase in jaz vem zase. Ne sedejo mi vedno defolt nastavitve. Tudi na GTju, ki ima fantastično vzmetenje sem si ga dal malce prenastavit (ni ročne opcije). O rezultatu poročam. Večino strojev, z izjemo Z900, pa sem vedno naprej zadaj uredil prednapetost, ker so japonci narejeni za 70kg voznika in mi je bila mašina za odtenek preveč zibajoča. Poleg tega imam raje trši moped, pa po tisti neravninah potrpim.

[DAMI34]

pred eno uro, Kmet2 pravi:

Obupaj , tega @DAMI34 ne more razumet!

Sem se tako matral z MTS1200 , odlično vzmetenje , dobro delujoče samo moped pa 5cm (katalizator) od ceste ......karkoli sem naredil , ko sem dal dva gor je bla veselica , motor v ovinkih kot na tirnicah ,sam kaj , ko je kurba ob nagibanju ružil ob asvalt. 

Lahko bi 100x zamenjal vzmetenje s katerim sem bil zadovoljen in še zmerom bi rajsal po tleh . 

Prenizek pika !

 

Dami zelo dobro razume, mu je tudi pisal o tvojem problemu na MTS, ampak sedaj se pogovarjamo o solo vozniku cca 80kg.

Če bi bolj v detajle prebral,  bi ugotovil, da ne govorimo samo o šlajsanju (to odpraviš samo z dvigom mopeda) ampak tudi o nastavitvah, katere pa v defoltu niso dovolj dobre.

[krucymucy]

17 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

Če bi bolj v detajle prebral,  bi ugotovil, da ne govorimo samo o šlajsanju (to odpraviš samo z dvigom mopeda) ampak tudi o nastavitvah, katere pa v defoltu niso dovolj dobre.

To ti govoris, ne jaz.

25 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

ne bom odgovoril, ker se mi ne da. Vsak ve zase in jaz vem zase. Ne sedejo mi vedno defolt nastavitve.

Meni tudi ne. Zato pa sem premaknil.

[Kugelschreiber]

12 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

sedaj se pogovarjamo o solo vozniku cca 80kg.

DISKRIMINACIJA?!?!?!?!? NASILJE NAD MANJŠINO!!!!!!!!

 

ni vse v višini, Marsikdaj zagode širina. Sovozniške tačke so dobesedno pol metra od tal, pa v kakih ovinkih počoha. ker so ful narazen. Včasih se da zadnji amortizer kej podložit, pa se par mm fino pozna. Če ne, pa druge dogbone rezat, 

[DAMI34]

pred 5 minutami, krucymucy pravi:

To ti govoris, ne jaz.

Meni tudi ne. Zato pa sem premaknil.

Da, premaknil, z upoštevanjem svetovanega ali predpisanega saga, več nas pa je pisalo o tem, da poskusi z zmanjšanjem le tega.

Nekaj lastnikov je navedlo svoje nastavitve.

pred 4 minutami, Kugelschreiber pravi:

DISKRIMINACIJA?!?!?!?!? NASILJE NAD MANJŠINO!!!!!!!!

 

ni vse v višini, Marsikdaj zagode širina. Sovozniške tačke so dobesedno pol metra od tal, pa v kakih ovinkih počoha. ker so ful narazen. Včasih se da zadnji amortizer kej podložit, pa se par mm fino pozna. Če ne, pa druge dogbone rezat, 

itak, ampak Tracer nima problemov s sovoznikovimi tačkami, prej s centralcem in voznikovimi (al pa objestnim voznikom :P)

 

[Kmet2]

pred 47 minutami, DAMI34 pravi:

Dami zelo dobro razume, mu je tudi pisal o tvojem problemu na MTS, ampak sedaj se pogovarjamo o solo vozniku cca 80kg.

Če bi bolj v detajle prebral,  bi ugotovil, da ne govorimo samo o šlajsanju (to odpraviš samo z dvigom mopeda) ampak tudi o nastavitvah, katere pa v defoltu niso dovolj dobre.

S tabo se pregovarjat je ........nesmiselno ......

[DAMI34]

pred 1 minuto, Kmet2 pravi:

S tabo se pregovarjat je ........nesmiselno ......

jp..

[krucymucy]

41 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

Da, premaknil, z upoštevanjem svetovanega ali predpisanega saga, več nas pa je pisalo o tem, da poskusi z zmanjšanjem le tega.

Nekaj lastnikov je navedlo svoje nastavitve.

Vzmetenje dela v obe smeri, ne samo v eno. Ocitno tega ne ves.

In v primeru da je nastavljeno kakor mora biti, je moped zadaj prenizek.

Jaz bom to sicer resil, ti si pa preload po obcutku nastavljaj se naprej. 

Ocitno je kmet edini, ki ve v cem je problem.

Popravljeno September 20, 2018. Popravil krucymucy

[Kmet2]

pred 10 minutami, DAMI34 pravi:

jp..

Si govoril , ko smo štimali MTS ,da je v kurcu  vzmetenje.

Ko sem ti tumbal da je vzmetenje ok si ti nabijal o preslabem vzmetenju , ko sem ti tumbal o prenizkem motorju in ne o preslabem vzmetenju si spet tumbal o preslabem vzmetenju itd  ........

A zdej si pa pameten in bi ti rešil problem z dvigom motorja .  A ni preslabo vzmetenje ? 

In jaz vem o čem teče beseda in ti točno veš tudi a si dobil nek koncept  priljubljenega forumaša, ki mu ne prideš do konca tudi , ko mu razložiš , ko pet letnemu fantku ,,,,, 

Vem ,da se ti tukaj ne boš ustavil , ker pač veš vse   in enkrat si celo vozil Tracerja 5km  pa si vedel o njem več kot kakšna tovarna , ki ga je skonstruirala .....

Uživajte v MS nebulozah ti pa kot si vajen , ko ti kaj ne paše  ......briss , s tem nimam problemov , celo prosim te 

[DAMI34]

pred 27 minutami, Kmet2 pravi:

Si govoril , ko smo štimali MTS ,da je v kurcu  vzmetenje.

Ko sem ti tumbal da je vzmetenje ok si ti nabijal o preslabem vzmetenju , ko sem ti tumbal o prenizkem motorju in ne o preslabem vzmetenju si spet tumbal o preslabem vzmetenju itd  ........

A zdej si pa pameten in bi ti rešil problem z dvigom motorja .  A ni preslabo vzmetenje ? 

In jaz vem o čem teče beseda in ti točno veš tudi a si dobil nek koncept  priljubljenega forumaša, ki mu ne prideš do konca tudi , ko mu razložiš , ko pet letnemu fantku ,,,,, 

Vem ,da se ti tukaj ne boš ustavil , ker pač veš vse   in enkrat si celo vozil Tracerja 5km  pa si vedel o njem več kot kakšna tovarna , ki ga je skonstruirala .....

Uživajte v MS nebulozah ti pa kot si vajen , ko ti kaj ne paše  ......briss , s tem nimam problemov , celo prosim te 

bom čist kratek, potem pa neham tule.....ko je Kmet prišel s svojim 990 ful nakrcanim pred par leti je na OMW jokal da se ziblje kot barka, mu je Dami povedal naj obrne okrog tisti krogec pri zadnji vzmeti. Tako da ja, nekaj malega vem.

Poleg tega MTS nima nobene veze s Tracerjem, niti tvoja slaba volja. Če te jaz osebno sekiram, so druge teme, tam se razpiši.

Zaenkrat pa je debata v tej temi okrog vzmetenja lahko normalna in ne vidim potrebe da se strinjamo, niti ne vidim potrebe, da začnemo obračunavat, ker je nekdo siten.

Ne bom dajal linkov, je pa kr nekaj lastnikov Tracer, celo navadne, ki so vzmetenje prilagodili drugače, primerno svojim potrebam in so nastavitve napisali tukaj.

ps. pa brisal te tudi ne bom, ti sam joči.....ampak čez 14 dni te tudi ne bom, ko se boš premislil.

@krucymucyda vzmetenje deluje v obe smeri, ampak če je preslabo dimenzionirano, recimo vzemimo tako predpostavko, potem statični sag ne igra tako bistvene vloge kot pa posed, ko se oseba usede nanj. Oziroma jaz bi ga zmanjšal. Ni nujno da imam prav, ni nujno da ti tako narediš in ni nujno da začnem nekoga žali.

[Nearrain]

15 hours ago, DAMI34 said:

o pa se

 

Tud  po nesrec se ne nastavlja po obcutku !!!   kere buce !!!

Sag se ne nastavlja po obcutku, ampak po merjenju staticnega sag-a ( brez voznika) in obremenjenga sag-a ( z voznikom in pritljago, ce mislis motor obcutno  oblozit za na popotovanje).

How to set suspension sag

What is sag?

Loaded sag is the name given to the amount of suspension travel used up when the bike settles with a rider on board. To alter the sag you need to adjust how much the springs in the forks and the spring in the rear shock are compressed (also called altering the springs’ tension or altering the pre-load). As a very broad guide a road bike should have 25-30mm of loaded sag at the front and 20-22mm at the rear.

Why bother?

Adjusting the sag to match your weight will ensure your bike's suspension works in its optimal range. This will improve ride and handling and boost your confidence as well as making the bike safer to ride. 

Don’t do it if…

You are particularly rubbish at very simple maths, or own a bike that doesn’t have pre-load adjustment – you can but it’s very specialised and includes new springs, fork oil and money.

Stuff you’ll need

A friend, a socket that fits the front fork pre-load adjusters (though some bikes only have facility for adjustment by spanner), and a C-spanner to turn the rear spring’s pre-load ring. Check the bike’s toolkit and if there isn’t one you’ll have to visit a specialist tool shop. You’ll also need a small cable tie, a tape measure, a notepad and a pen.

What can go wrong?

The worst that can happen is that you get completely confused or ‘lost’ with which way you need to adjust the pre-load. As long as you have an owners’ manual, or have access to the stock settings (dealer can supply), you can revert to standard and start again.

Anything else?

This guide shows you how to set sag for a solo rider. If most of your riding is two-up or with luggage, you’ll need  more pre-load at both ends (especially the rear) to compensate.

1. Before you do anything, check that the bike is on stock suspension settings. Second-hand bikes are particularly likely to have been mucked around with. Revert to the settings given in the owners’ handbook, or from a dealer. The reason for this is to have a solid base setting to start from to reduce the chance of confusion.

2. Starting at the front of the bike, fit a cable tie around the slider part of one fork leg (the chromed bit). With the aid of a friend, pull the bike over on its sidestand to lift the front wheel clear of the ground so the suspension ‘tops out’. Slide and butt the cable-tie against the fork seal.

3. On upside-down forks (pictured) measure the distance between the fork seal and the point where the slider joins the lower casting (the mount for the wheel spindle and brake caliper). Note the measurement and call it ‘A’. On conventional right-way-up forks measure from the fork seal to the underside of the lower fork yoke instead.

4. Sit on the bike in your normal kit and riding position while a friend balances it (without applying force up or down). The cable tie will move as the forks compress. Measure from the fixed reference point on the casting to the top of the cable tie (or on right-way-up forks, from the bottom of the tie to the fixed point on the yoke). Call this distance ‘B’.

5. Your sag value is simply A minus B. If you have too much sag, say 40mm, you need to increase the fork tension/pre-load by turning both pre-load adjusters in/clockwise. Start by increasing pre-load one turn on each adjuster and then repeat the measurement procedure until the ideal sag figure is achieved.

6. To measure the rear suspension’s sag, lift the rear of the bike until the rear wheel is off the deck. Measure vertically from the centre of the rear wheel spindle to a fixed reference point on the chassis. On the ZX-10R used here we used the bottom of the bungee point. Make a note of measurement ‘A’.

7. Again sit on the bike as if riding normally. The bike has to be supporting all your weight to get an accurate measurement, so feet must be on pegs. Try parking next to a wall and balancing yourself with an elbow while your pal does the measuring. Again measure from the centre of the spindle to the fixed reference point for measurement ‘B’.

8. Subtract measurement ‘B’ from measurement ‘A’ to get the rear sag figure. Now it’s just the simple matter of adjusting the amount of pre-load on the rear spring (or springs if it’s a twin-shock set-up) and re-measuring until A minus B is in the right range. More pre-load will reduce sag, less pre-load will add to it.

9. Rear pre-load adjusters can differ, but the principle is the same – by reducing the length of the spring you increase the tension in it. On the ZX-10R you need to use a
C-spanner to slacken off the upper locking ring first. More often than not, it’s easier to use a hammer and drift to crack it loose.

10. Back off the locking ring by hand to give more access to the adjusting ring. Fit the C-spanner to the adjusting ring and turn clockwise to increase the pre-load, or anti-clockwise to reduce it. Adjust by one to two turns at a time then re-check the sag. Go steady as C-spanners are notorious for slipping off.

11. Once you’re happy with the sag figure, tighten the locking ring to the adjusting ring, being careful not to move the adjusting ring while doing so. Two C-spanners are ideal, otherwise hold the adjuster ring with the C-spanner and get your friend to tap the locking ring against the adjuster with a drift and hammer.

12. Push up and down on both ends of the bike to ‘settle’ the springs and re-check the sag figure. Take the bike for a test ride to assess the improvement in ride quality. If you haven’t been able to get the sag figure you desire then the chances are different springs (with a harder/softer spring rate) are needed from aftermarket suspension specialists.

____________________________

Suspension Setup 101 Part I: Setting Sag

 

 

 

Pity the motorcycling newcomer. On top of acquiring an acceptable machine, learning to ride it and dividing one's attention between actually operating the bike and keeping errant cars and trucks from dealing death blows out on the mean streets, newbies must also eventually deal with the arcane and often-confusing subject of suspension tuning.

Powered By 

Ooooh. The words alone strike terror in even the most seasoned riders.

Forget such involved concepts as spring rates, preload, compression and rebound damping. Newcomers are likely to take one look at the bewildering array of knobs, clickers, nuts and screws on today's sportier motorcycles and simply ignore the whole thing. Which would be a mistake, of course, because the simple truth is that proper adjustment of your motorcycle's suspension can make a huge difference in the way your bike handles--and how well you're able to ride it.

Race Tech's (www.race-tech.com) Paul Thede has dealt with dirt- and streetbike suspension modifications for nearly two decades, and his take is this: "Proper suspension setup is key to riding fast and safely. [Your bike's suspension] requires proper adjustment to work to its maximum potential.

The cool thing is, suspension tuning isn't rocket science."He's right. Basic suspension setup isn't overly difficult, especially if you take things one stage at a time. And stage one in the quest for a well set-up streetbike suspension is to dial in spring sag--that is, the distance the fork and shock compress with a rider aboard (laden) compared with the fork and shock fully extended (or unladen).

Step one is to determine your fork and shock's fully extended (unladen) measurements. To do this you'll need to get both wheels off the ground, though not at the same time. On bikes with sidestands, the front wheel can be raised relatively easily by rocking the bike over on its stand and raising the front end; this is much harder to do with the rear wheel, but it can be done if the person doing the raising is both strong and coordinated. Centerstands make raising the rear wheel simple, though an underengine stand (or a sidestand) will be necessary for bikes lacking them.

For the back wheel number, measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis using a tape measure; metric figures are easiest and more precise. A graphic point on the sidepanel or the bottom edge of the panel itself work well as reference points. Be sure to mark the exact points you used because you'll need to refer to them again. Record this measurement on a notepad next to the notation marked "R, unladen." Up front, extend the fork completely with the wheel in the air and measure from the wiper (the dust seal between the shiny slider and textured stanchion) to a point on the bottom triple clamp (or the lower fork casting on an inverted fork). Record this measurement next to the notation "F, unladen."

Now you're ready to record the same two measurements with the fully outfitted rider on the bike (these would be the "laden" numbers). Ask a buddy to hold the front or back of the bike while you get settled, and have a third person (preferably the one who took the unladen measurements) record the laden numbers front and rear. Mark these as "R, laden" and "F, laden." Subtract the laden front and rear numbers from the unladen front and rear numbers and bingo!--you've got your two sag numbers.

Thede likes to work with 30-35mm of sag on streetbikes, 25-30mm for racebikes. Your numbers will likely be higher than these (a softer ride), in which case you'll want to increase spring preload on the shock and/or fork. If your numbers are less than these (a firmer ride), try reducing preload a bit. Adjust things until the measurements fall within acceptable parameters. You'll have to remeasure after making the preload changes, of course.

Remember, there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with slightly less or more sag than these guidelines, no worries. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on various factors, including chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection, rider weight and/or riding style.

Next month we'll turn our attention to rebound and compression damping.

 

1 of 2Doing a decent job of measuring and setting spring sag means drafting a few friends to help. Be sure you're wearing all your gear when taking measurements; measuring spring sag without a stand will be easier as well.

 

Popravljeno September 20, 2018. Popravil Nearrain

[DAMI34]

pred 14 minutami, Nearrain pravi:

 

Tud  po nesrec se ne nastavlja po obcutku !!!   kere buce !!!

Sag se ne nastavlja po obcutku, ampak po merjenju staticnega sag-a ( brez voznika) in obremenjenga sag-a ( z voznikom in pritljago, ce mislis motor rsno nalozit za na popotovanje recimo).

How to set suspension sag

What is sag?

Loaded sag is the name given to the amount of suspension travel used up when the bike settles with a rider on board. To alter the sag you need to adjust how much the springs in the forks and the spring in the rear shock are compressed (also called altering the springs’ tension or altering the pre-load). As a very broad guide a road bike should have 25-30mm of loaded sag at the front and 20-22mm at the rear.

Why bother?

Adjusting the sag to match your weight will ensure your bike's suspension works in its optimal range. This will improve ride and handling and boost your confidence as well as making the bike safer to ride. 

Don’t do it if…

You are particularly rubbish at very simple maths, or own a bike that doesn’t have pre-load adjustment – you can but it’s very specialised and includes new springs, fork oil and money.

Stuff you’ll need

A friend, a socket that fits the front fork pre-load adjusters (though some bikes only have facility for adjustment by spanner), and a C-spanner to turn the rear spring’s pre-load ring. Check the bike’s toolkit and if there isn’t one you’ll have to visit a specialist tool shop. You’ll also need a small cable tie, a tape measure, a notepad and a pen.

What can go wrong?

The worst that can happen is that you get completely confused or ‘lost’ with which way you need to adjust the pre-load. As long as you have an owners’ manual, or have access to the stock settings (dealer can supply), you can revert to standard and start again.

Anything else?

This guide shows you how to set sag for a solo rider. If most of your riding is two-up or with luggage, you’ll need  more pre-load at both ends (especially the rear) to compensate.

1. Before you do anything, check that the bike is on stock suspension settings. Second-hand bikes are particularly likely to have been mucked around with. Revert to the settings given in the owners’ handbook, or from a dealer. The reason for this is to have a solid base setting to start from to reduce the chance of confusion.

2. Starting at the front of the bike, fit a cable tie around the slider part of one fork leg (the chromed bit). With the aid of a friend, pull the bike over on its sidestand to lift the front wheel clear of the ground so the suspension ‘tops out’. Slide and butt the cable-tie against the fork seal.

3. On upside-down forks (pictured) measure the distance between the fork seal and the point where the slider joins the lower casting (the mount for the wheel spindle and brake caliper). Note the measurement and call it ‘A’. On conventional right-way-up forks measure from the fork seal to the underside of the lower fork yoke instead.

4. Sit on the bike in your normal kit and riding position while a friend balances it (without applying force up or down). The cable tie will move as the forks compress. Measure from the fixed reference point on the casting to the top of the cable tie (or on right-way-up forks, from the bottom of the tie to the fixed point on the yoke). Call this distance ‘B’.

5. Your sag value is simply A minus B. If you have too much sag, say 40mm, you need to increase the fork tension/pre-load by turning both pre-load adjusters in/clockwise. Start by increasing pre-load one turn on each adjuster and then repeat the measurement procedure until the ideal sag figure is achieved.

6. To measure the rear suspension’s sag, lift the rear of the bike until the rear wheel is off the deck. Measure vertically from the centre of the rear wheel spindle to a fixed reference point on the chassis. On the ZX-10R used here we used the bottom of the bungee point. Make a note of measurement ‘A’.

7. Again sit on the bike as if riding normally. The bike has to be supporting all your weight to get an accurate measurement, so feet must be on pegs. Try parking next to a wall and balancing yourself with an elbow while your pal does the measuring. Again measure from the centre of the spindle to the fixed reference point for measurement ‘B’.

8. Subtract measurement ‘B’ from measurement ‘A’ to get the rear sag figure. Now it’s just the simple matter of adjusting the amount of pre-load on the rear spring (or springs if it’s a twin-shock set-up) and re-measuring until A minus B is in the right range. More pre-load will reduce sag, less pre-load will add to it.

9. Rear pre-load adjusters can differ, but the principle is the same – by reducing the length of the spring you increase the tension in it. On the ZX-10R you need to use a
C-spanner to slacken off the upper locking ring first. More often than not, it’s easier to use a hammer and drift to crack it loose.

10. Back off the locking ring by hand to give more access to the adjusting ring. Fit the C-spanner to the adjusting ring and turn clockwise to increase the pre-load, or anti-clockwise to reduce it. Adjust by one to two turns at a time then re-check the sag. Go steady as C-spanners are notorious for slipping off.

11. Once you’re happy with the sag figure, tighten the locking ring to the adjusting ring, being careful not to move the adjusting ring while doing so. Two C-spanners are ideal, otherwise hold the adjuster ring with the C-spanner and get your friend to tap the locking ring against the adjuster with a drift and hammer.

12. Push up and down on both ends of the bike to ‘settle’ the springs and re-check the sag figure. Take the bike for a test ride to assess the improvement in ride quality. If you haven’t been able to get the sag figure you desire then the chances are different springs (with a harder/softer spring rate) are needed from aftermarket suspension specialists.

____________________________

Suspension Setup 101 Part I: Setting Sag

 

 

 

Pity the motorcycling newcomer. On top of acquiring an acceptable machine, learning to ride it and dividing one's attention between actually operating the bike and keeping errant cars and trucks from dealing death blows out on the mean streets, newbies must also eventually deal with the arcane and often-confusing subject of suspension tuning.

Powered By 

Ooooh. The words alone strike terror in even the most seasoned riders.

Forget such involved concepts as spring rates, preload, compression and rebound damping. Newcomers are likely to take one look at the bewildering array of knobs, clickers, nuts and screws on today's sportier motorcycles and simply ignore the whole thing. Which would be a mistake, of course, because the simple truth is that proper adjustment of your motorcycle's suspension can make a huge difference in the way your bike handles--and how well you're able to ride it.

Race Tech's (www.race-tech.com) Paul Thede has dealt with dirt- and streetbike suspension modifications for nearly two decades, and his take is this: "Proper suspension setup is key to riding fast and safely. [Your bike's suspension] requires proper adjustment to work to its maximum potential.

The cool thing is, suspension tuning isn't rocket science."

He's right. Basic suspension setup isn't overly difficult, especially if you take things one stage at a time. And stage one in the quest for a well set-up streetbike suspension is to dial in spring sag--that is, the distance the fork and shock compress with a rider aboard (laden) compared with the fork and shock fully extended (or unladen).

Step one is to determine your fork and shock's fully extended (unladen) measurements. To do this you'll need to get both wheels off the ground, though not at the same time. On bikes with sidestands, the front wheel can be raised relatively easily by rocking the bike over on its stand and raising the front end; this is much harder to do with the rear wheel, but it can be done if the person doing the raising is both strong and coordinated. Centerstands make raising the rear wheel simple, though an underengine stand (or a sidestand) will be necessary for bikes lacking them.

For the back wheel number, measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis using a tape measure; metric figures are easiest and more precise. A graphic point on the sidepanel or the bottom edge of the panel itself work well as reference points. Be sure to mark the exact points you used because you'll need to refer to them again. Record this measurement on a notepad next to the notation marked "R, unladen." Up front, extend the fork completely with the wheel in the air and measure from the wiper (the dust seal between the shiny slider and textured stanchion) to a point on the bottom triple clamp (or the lower fork casting on an inverted fork). Record this measurement next to the notation "F, unladen."

Now you're ready to record the same two measurements with the fully outfitted rider on the bike (these would be the "laden" numbers). Ask a buddy to hold the front or back of the bike while you get settled, and have a third person (preferably the one who took the unladen measurements) record the laden numbers front and rear. Mark these as "R, laden" and "F, laden." Subtract the laden front and rear numbers from the unladen front and rear numbers and bingo!--you've got your two sag numbers.

 

Thede likes to work with 30-35mm of sag on streetbikes, 25-30mm for racebikes. Your numbers will likely be higher than these (a softer ride), in which case you'll want to increase spring preload on the shock and/or fork. If your numbers are less than these (a firmer ride), try reducing preload a bit. Adjust things until the measurements fall within acceptable parameters. You'll have to remeasure after making the preload changes, of course.

Remember, there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with slightly less or more sag than these guidelines, no worries. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on various factors, including chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection, rider weight and/or riding style.

Next month we'll turn our attention to rebound and compression damping.

 

1 of 2

 

Doing a decent job of measuring and setting spring sag means drafting a few friends to help. Be sure you're wearing all your gear when taking measurements; measuring spring sag without a stand will be easier as well.

 

sori, sem mislil, da govorimo o prednapetosti.

 

 

https://motosvet.com/tabla/topic/39378-yamaha-mt-09-tracer/?do=findComment&comment=2464572

[Nearrain]

6 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

sori, sem mislil, da govorimo o prednapetosti.

 

....  dej mi  prosit lepo razlozi, s cim se spreminja SAG?

 

 

 

 

HINT: s prednapetostjo vzmeti

ccc   

Popravljeno September 20, 2018. Popravil Nearrain

[DAMI34]

pred 1 minuto, Nearrain pravi:

 

....  dej mi  prosit razlozi, s cim se spreminja SAG?

 

 

 

 

HINT: s prednapetostjo vzmeti

ccc   

vem, in lej ga vraga zakaj so potem nastavljivi amortizerji pa koleščka? Da po nesreči ne spreminjaš saga?

 

[Nearrain]

3 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

vem, in lej ga vraga zakaj so potem nastavljivi amortizerji pa koleščka? Da po nesreči ne spreminjaš saga?

 

jaz bi na tvojem mestu zdajle vzel sekundo za razmislek nad svojim pametovanjem in utihnil za kar precej casa, da se dim tvojih buck poleze

IMHO

 

[DAMI34]

Pravkar, Nearrain pravi:

jaz bi na tvojem mestu zdajle vzel sekundo za razmislek nad svojim pametovanjem in utihnil za kar precej casa, da se dim tvojih buck poleze

IMHO

 

jaz bi pa na tvojem mestu šel v temo o vzmetenju, ker tole ni nič več povezano s Tracerjem ampak vsak goni svojo.

Tako da 

STOP

 

 

[Kmet2]

pred 5 minutami, DAMI34 pravi:

bom čist kratek, potem pa neham tule.....ko je Kmet prišel s svojim 990 ful nakrcanim pred par leti je na OMW jokal da se ziblje kot barka, mu je Dami povedal naj obrne okrog tisti krogec pri zadnji vzmeti. Tako da ja, nekaj malega vem.

Poleg tega MTS nima nobene veze s Tracerjem, niti tvoja slaba volja. Če te jaz osebno sekiram, so druge teme, tam se razpiši.

Zaenkrat pa je debata v tej temi okrog vzmetenja lahko normalna in ne vidim potrebe da se strinjamo, niti ne vidim potrebe, da začnemo obračunavat, ker je nekdo siten.

Ne bom dajal linkov, je pa kr nekaj lastnikov Tracer, celo navadne, ki so vzmetenje prilagodili drugače, primerno svojim potrebam in so nastavitve napisali tukaj.

ps. pa brisal te tudi ne bom, ti sam joči.....ampak čez 14 dni te tudi ne bom, ko se boš premislil.

@krucymucyda vzmetenje deluje v obe smeri, ampak če je preslabo dimenzionirano, recimo vzemimo tako predpostavko, potem statični sag ne igra tako bistvene vloge kot pa posed, ko se oseba usede nanj. Oziroma jaz bi ga zmanjšal. Ni nujno da imam prav, ni nujno da ti tako narediš in ni nujno da začnem nekoga žali.

Ko je Kmet prišel z svojim 990ADV si rešil zadevo fantastično , ker motor ni bil prenizek in , ker je motor imel vzmetenje, kot se šika.

Si rešil na Diavelu, MTS itd ..........si v nekem kalupu in ni vsaka ideja, ki dela na tvojem mopiju ista rešitev za nek drugi. 

Nobeden ti ne očita,da nekaj ne veš , dokler se ti ne nariše in ti še v eno v rog .

Lahko bi poleg svojega posta še povedal ali sem imel prav za MTS , to si namreč izpustil. 

in ja siten sem in imam dober razlog in ti imaš radirko in tudi dober razlog . 

Če te jaz kaj prosim privat , naj ostane privat ali si začel mešat realnost z virtualnostjo ?

Jaz sem samo napisal , kar si pisal že sam v MTS .

Vsi ki si pa lastite motorje kot Tracer, Versys itd pač za ta denar dobiš neko povprečno zadevo za nadvse povprečnega motorista ki se drži vseh napisanih pravil. 

Če hočeš kaj več od motorja se pljune pač več tisočakov , ki jih pol limate na te svoje povprečne motorje iz katerih bi radi najboljše vzmetenje , vetrno zaščito in še kaj .

Grobo napisano , ne da se mi olepšavat .

[Vin]

14 hours ago, krucymucy said:

Ne vem kdo izbira to vzmetenje v teh poceni yamahah ampak po moje zgleda nekak takole.

"zdravo kyb! Ene vilce pa en amortizer rabimo, mal daljsi kot of mt09"

"koliko daljsi in pa kaksna bo teza motorja"

"eh nima veze, sej se bodo snecerji vozili, pa se poceni moped bo"

"aha ok, pol damo neki kar je cimbolj poceni"

"tako tako"

"ajde bok"

Pri XSR900 je pa bilo nadaljevanje tega:

"Zdravo kyb! A veš, da smo dali pri MT-09 premehke fedre. Daj mi nekaj tršega!"

"Ok, tule imaš, zadnja je še posebej trda, da res ne bo pritožb!"

"Eeee, to majster, misli mi bereš!"

"Ajde, bok!"

[Nearrain]

4 minutes ago, Vin said:

Pri XSR900 je pa bilo nadaljevanje tega:

"Zdravo kyb! A veš, da smo dali pri MT-09 premehke fedre. Daj mi nekaj tršega!"

"Ok, tule imaš, zadnja je še posebej trda, da res ne bo pritožb!"

"Eeee, to majster, misli mi bereš!"

"Ajde, bok!"

Lahko se najde podatek, ali vprasa serviserja, dealerja za koliko kg obremitve je primerna originalna vzmet. Ce ne ustreza, se jo pac zamenja s primernejso in sele nato nastavlja SAG.

Popravljeno September 20, 2018. Popravil Nearrain

[krucymucy]

12 minutes ago, Nearrain said:

jaz bi na tvojem mestu zdajle vzel sekundo za razmislek nad svojim pametovanjem in utihnil za kar precej casa, da se dim tvojih buck poleze

IMHO

 

Tako. 

11 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

jaz bi pa na tvojem mestu šel v temo o vzmetenju, ker tole ni nič več povezano s Tracerjem ampak vsak goni svojo.

Tako da 

STOP

 

 

A trejser ni motor? Kako ni povezano?

22 minutes ago, DAMI34 said:

sori, sem mislil, da govorimo o prednapetosti.

 

 

https://motosvet.com/tabla/topic/39378-yamaha-mt-09-tracer/?do=findComment&comment=2464572

O cem pa govorim? Vipavskih breskvah?

[DAMI34]

pred 2 minutami, krucymucy pravi:

Tako. 

A trejser ni motor? Kako ni povezano?

O cem pa govorim? Vipavskih breskvah?

Sem povedal da dovolj. Smo govorili o prednapetosti, je vsak podal svoje vrednosti in smo prišli do prepucavanja.

Zato nimam več kaj povedati. Niti ne me izzivat.

[krucymucy]

Tudi to kar si povedal dosedaj je narobe. Ni tu nobenega prepucavanja.

Lp

[Snečer]

Mogoče nasvet, poglej v navodila, tam ti vse piše.

[krucymucy]

1 hour ago, Snecer said:

Mogoče nasvet, poglej v navodila, tam ti vse piše.

Pise kaksne so default nastavitve in kaj se s cim nastavlja.

Hvala za nasvet.