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Kako sem izbral pr(a)vi motor??????


klimbra

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Pravzaprav je izbira, ko si enkrat postaviš želje in omejitve, zelo majhna in v poštev pride le še nekaj modelov. V mojem primeru že omenjena CBF 1000, TDM 900 A, Suzuki GSF 1250 SA, BMW pa je že v štartu izpadel zaradi cene.

Škoda da si BMW-eja izključil? Mogoče si ga enkrat le kupiš in takrat boš obžaloval, da si ga nisi prej privoščil.Jaz sem 9 let vztrajal na V-maxu saj ni bil slab motor, ampak v primerjavi z zdajšnjim je neprimerljiv kar v vsemu:pospeški,poraba,zavore,stabilnost,vzdržlivost,končna,dotatna oprema (ABS,WGS,ESA)itd. :hmm:

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Škoda da si BMW-eja izključil? Mogoče si ga enkrat le kupiš in takrat boš obžaloval, da si ga nisi prej privoščil.Jaz sem 9 let vztrajal na V-maxu saj ni bil slab motor, ampak v primerjavi z zdajšnjim je neprimerljiv kar v vsemu:pospeški,poraba,zavore,stabilnost,vzdržlivost,končna,dotatna oprema (ABS,WGS,ESA)itd. :hmm:

Ampak če je zdržal 9 let že ni mogel biti tako slab, kaj ne?. V tem času je šel razvoj tudi svojo pot in logično je, da je nov motor boljši (tako bi vsaj moralo biti). O BMW so zelo deljena mnenja. Kakšen model (npr. 1200GS) kujejo v zvezde, kakšen drugi pa na nobenem testu ne briljira. In nikjer niso BMW-ji ocenjeni kot začetniški motorji, ker imajo svoje posebnosti.

Zaenkrat sem kar zadovoljen s svojo izbiro. Več moči in prostora ne potrebujem, pa tudi značke ne mislim plačevati.

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kako sem izbral pravi motor? ga še nisem, nikakor mojih želja ne spravim v en motor znotraj mojega cenovnega okvirja :S

začel (po mopedu) z Gilero 125 KZ (kao sport turing)...šla je fajn, bla je grda, mel sem se fino (sanjal čoperje-predragi), kupil sem jo samo zato, ker je bila edina, ki sem si jo lahko privoščil in je bila dovolj velika zeme) :D

potem je prišel GPZ 500 S, meni je bil zelo všeč, udoben, poskočen, poceni, zanesljiv a meni premajhen (2m)...zaradi šolnine prodal

par let kasneje kupil KLR 650...pojma nimam zakaj sem ga kupil, ni mi ustrezal v ničemer - prodal še isto sezono

zopet je minilo nekaj let, ko sem ugotovil, da bi bilo fino imeti nekaj za po Ljubljani, ker je problem s parkingi...kolebal med xj 600 in Yamaho YP 250 Majesty...kupil slednjo in zopet dobil voljo do motorjev...bila je udobna, poceni,...in ko sem ugotovil, da delam pogosto preko 200km v enem šusu, sem ugotovil da bi nekaj večjega, močnejšega (ponovno sem našel veselje do vožnje)

kolebal med maxi skuterji (ki so me čisto prevzeli) ala Atlantic, Burgi 650 in Silver wing 600...se odločil za slednjo poiskal lušten primerek in nato zadnjo sekundo šel, čisto iz fore, pogledati svojo dolgoletno ljubezen Kawasaki VN 800 Classic. V trenutku ko sem ga zagledal, sva se oba z mojo drago, zaljubila...krom namesto plastike, karakter, zvok...sploh ni bilo več debate...pa še tipo je pristal na zelo ugodno ceno :D

nekje 2 leti kasneje ga prodajam, ker ugotavljam, da ni "to to" zame, čeprav m ije še vedno neznansko všeč, še vedno se mi smeje, ko bobnim z njim po cesti ampak...preveč hitro podrsam v ovinkih, premajhen, prenizek, premalo udoben za dolge ture, premalo prtljažnega prostora, trtica me boli... in zaradi moje velike želje po potovanjih z motorjem, ki jih ta preprosto ne more zadovoljiti.

sedaj sem postavljen pred dilemo, ki ji kar ni videti konca...če bi denar ne bil ovira, bi verjetno pobral enega izmed potovalnih bavarcev (K1300GT, r1200rt ali gs 1200) a ker je moj maximum nekje pri 4.000€ se zgodba pošteno zaplete :S

ne pašem skorajda na noben motor, po eni strani želim dinamično zasnovo zaradi polaganja ovinkov, biti mora zabaven in igriv (sport turing mi je všeč, sam na ture 200km + zna biti malce naporen), po drugi strani mora biti zelo udoben, dobra vetrna zaščita, veeeeeeeelik, veliko prtljažnega prostora, poceni vzdrževanje, pa še všeč mi mora biti.

aja, pa pri motorjih in avtih iščem "tisto nekaj več", tisto kar je težko definirati,...preprosto mora imeti dušo, mora dobro zveneti in mora ga biti užitek voziti...če me motor pusti hladnega, bo stal v garaži (avto je ipak udobnejša in enostavnejša varjanta)

sedaj gledam nekje proti (potovalne endure) Apriliji 1000 Caponord (izgled, dinamična zasnova), varaderi xl 1000 (nič duše a je baje res dober in zanesljiv potovalnik), GS-u 1150 (če bi dobil pametnega za tak denar, a je to misija nemogoče),

pa malo proti (sport turing segment) Aprilii Futuri (leeeepa), suzuki banditu 1200 S (mlačno ampak ga precej hvalijo kot potovalni bombnik),

pa proti popolnemu turizmu ala BMW R 1100 RT oz raje 1150 rt (solidno zgleda, solidno se baje pelje, res udoben, izvrstna vetrna zaščita, bojim se cene, hehe, pa tega da zadeva ne bi bila dovolj zabavna za vozit),...ni da ni :? zmeden kot kura :D

moja vprašanja, ki si jih zastavljam zadnje čase:

-ali je dovolj velik, udoben zame (sem precej zahteven pri tej točki)

-ali se bi lahko brez večjih problemov vozil na zelo dolge večdnevne ture z njim ali bi me preveč utrudil

-ali bi zaradi pretiranega udobja, zaščite ali zasnove (maxi endrue npr.), postal nezanimiv za preganjanje po ovinkih in krajše izlete

-kaj si bolj želim: udobja ali dinamičnosti, kje je prava mera obojega

-...

če bi lahko imel 3 motorje v hlevu, pol bi še nekako šlo, hehe :P

uf, sem se razpisal, mah ja, sej zato pa so forumi, mar ne :D

lp

ž

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@zzigon kaj pa kaka Yamaha TDM 900? Baje so dokaj udobne in baje tudi dokaj dinamične. Preberi malo temo o njej. Pa tudi v tvojem cenovnem rangu je.

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Hojla zzigon - pri meni je bilo skoraj isto "sranje" dokler si nisem kupil VAraderke.

zdaj pa upam da bo en čas mir

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@zzigon kaj pa kaka Yamaha TDM 900? Baje so dokaj udobne in baje tudi dokaj dinamične. Preberi malo temo o njej. Pa tudi v tvojem cenovnem rangu je.

TDMčka poznam, po papirjih in pripovedovanjih se mi je zdel idealen a me je v praksi popolnoma razočaral :(

premajhen, čuden (preozko krmilo za ta razred), praktično brez vetrne zaščite (zame velik minus)...skratka, me ni pritegnil...na žalost

se mi zdi, da so recimo Varadera, GS, Capo,...konkretno "večji" motocikli s podobnimi lastnostmi (kar je zame veeeelik plus)...vem pa, da je mnogo ljudi izjemno zadovoljnih z njimi ;)

opomba: jst zaradi višine motocikle drugače dojemam, kot povprečen motorist (to me tepe že celo življenje..."krpan na kobili" scena), še pri avtomobilih imam velike probleme z izbiro dovolj prostornega zame...zato se tudi oziram po "grande" endurah (drugače mi ne sedejo pretirano) :D

lp

ž

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[moja vprašanja, ki si jih zastavljam zadnje čase:

-ali je dovolj velik, udoben zame (sem precej zahteven pri tej točki)

-ali se bi lahko brez večjih problemov vozil na zelo dolge večdnevne ture z njim ali bi me preveč utrudil

-ali bi zaradi pretiranega udobja, zaščite ali zasnove (maxi endrue npr.), postal nezanimiv za preganjanje po ovinkih in krajše izlete

-kaj si bolj želim: udobja ali dinamičnosti, kje je prava mera obojega

-...

če bi lahko imel 3 motorje v hlevu, pol bi še nekako šlo, hehe :P

uf, sem se razpisal, mah ja, sej zato pa so forumi, mar ne :D

lp

ž

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mnja, cruzerja bodisi ljubiš ali jih niti videti ne moreš...osebno so mi zelo všeč (zvok, umirjenost, filling)

jst mam en velik probleme za čoperje in sicer, da imam poškodovano trtico...kar rezultira v precejšnjih problemih na daljših vožnjah (položaj kakršen je, močno obremenjuje trtico, še posebej, če si konkretno prevelik za motor, kot jaz)

iz slednjega razloga se bom moral kar malce potruditi, da najdem sebi primernega (denarna ovira niti slučajno ni majhna v tem kontekstu) :S

in nič od tega ne bi bilo problematično, če ne bi imel vedno močnejše želje po potovanjih z motorji, ki se jim ne mislil odpovedati ;) (končno imam tudi lepšo polovico, ki se s takimi potovanji strinja)

99% časa sva dva v sedlu, hitrost zmerna do dinamična, v glavnem regionalke, veliko prtljage (skupna teža okrog 200 kg z nama vred)...mah, če bom mimo usekal, bom pač menjal :D

saj nekaj jih imam malce nagledanih :)

lp

ž

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Ker me je kolega iz tujine prosil, da mu pomagam pri ogledu motorja, sem si vzel cas in spisal tole check listo :worship: . Miiiicken sem jo tudi prekopiral, priznam :whistle: . Sej vem, sej vem, sem najboljsi in oh in sploh.

Evo, tukaj je pa si jo lahko malo pogledate, skopirate, oznacite itd. Na zalost je ura pozna, jst pa len, tako da je ne mislim se prevajat. Ce pa ima kdo kaksno posebno zeljo, pa kar veselo.

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Checking a used motorcycle before actually buying it.

First of all: Take your time. I never ever hurry when looking at a bike. It's half the fun, also. You can really get to know a bike, even when you’re just looking to buy. Maybe this information will help your friends in the future. Feel the bike, get friendly with the owner,… and try not to show you don’t know what you’re doing J . So that also means you don’t carry this list with you. It also means you try to prepare for the entire deal. Try reading some tests of the bike, try gathering some information of the seller/owner of the bike. Is he a well known biker? Is there an internet forum, dedicated to the bike? Ask around about the bike. Is it known to be an okay ride? Of course, everybody roots for the bike they own, so try to find an objective opinion.

So, you will be needing at least a helmet, tiny flashlight (try not to be too obvious, so a small light will do), tissues, workshop gloves (or maybe surgical latex gloves so you look more serious and you don’t stain yourself). Try wearing stuff that you can lay on the floor in or bring a floor mat. I always try to come by bike in full equipment, makes me a bit more serious buyer and also I can see how my equipment fits with the bike I’m about to buy. A notepad and a pencil is also a good idea, too, because you know, smart people write things down.

I try to separate the check-up in 4 stages.

* Visually assess the bike,

* Check the bike over,

* Ride the bike.

I CAN’T POINT ENOUGH STRESS ON THIS. NEVER EVER EVER EVER BUY A BIKE YOU HAVEN’T RIDDEN. THE ONLY POSSIBLE EXCUSE IS THAT SOMEONE YOU TRUST HAS RIDDEN IT FOR YOU. AND EVEN THAT IS … LET’S SAY, UNCOMMON.

* Check the bike again,

and the most important one that goes without saying, but it must be said:

TALKING to the owner/seller

Try writing some facts down, your memory isn’t so good that you can remember every single detail.

First of all: BE NICE! Get to know him. Gain his trust. If he's a biking enthusiast, he'll be wanting a nice owner for his old bike. He also might share some information with you, that he might not otherwise. Does he have all of the documents? Are they all there? Ask to see the owner's manual (if the owner doesn't have the manual, maintenance may not have been done when it should have been). Find out if owner(s) has done self-maintenance. If so, does current owner have a torque wrench? Over-torqued fasteners and stripped threads are no fun. Did he use original parts or aftermarket parts? Why? Are they just cheaper or actually better?

Did he spend time writing a log of the bike? If he did, ask him for a copy. The log (if exists) is usually a lot more reliable than the service book of the bike. And this also shows the owner being meticulous. If the bike has any aftermarket equipment, does the owner have the homologation for it? Does he still have the original parts? Does the bike have an aftermarket exhaust? With homologation? And dB killers?

Find out his riding habits. If the bike is used only for a short commute on a regular basis, it may not get warmed up enough to evaporate moisture in the engine and exhaust system and rust and lubrication contaminants will result. If the rider spends a lot of time in hot stop-and-go traffic, the engine may frequently be subject to excessively high temperatures.

Ask the owner of his previous rides. Did he go to many strange places? Was he ever in places that has poor gasoline? Did he ride a lot with a pillion? (passenger) Pillion rides tend to wear the bearings, chain and the engine a bit more, but that also means that he rode in a nice way. Did he ride in all weather? Again, the bearings and the chain suffer more in the wet, let alone salt from the roads. Did he lubricate the chain frequently enough? 500kms or less in bad weather.

Is he a member of a motor club? MK, MC? Did he go to many motorcycle gatherings? Did he do any burnouts? Burnouts can be spotted by pieces of burned rubber on the inner side of the rear fender or under the seat places like exhaust pipes etc. Did he flame the exhaust? He will probably not admit it, but a lot of people do that. Check the pipes and exhaust collector for bluish-purple discoloring of the area. That points to over-revving the engine, or maybe racetrack use.

Ask if he was ever on a racetrack. Try to avoid bikes that were on the track, ‘cause usually people force their bikes to the limits on track. Not necessary, though. Some people just go to the track to get to know the bike a bit more and improve their riding style. Has he been on a safe riding course? That means that he’s probably a neat and safe rider.

Make sure there is a reputable dealer in your area. The best way to do this is to ask the owner. Ask if there is any specialist that he goes to when it comes to service. Can you service your bike there, too? Could you get a good deal on the service costs? Better that other places?

What’s the mileage he has been making? Is it the same as you found out online? Not the brochure, but from other owners. How long did the last set of tires last him? Is that normal? What is needed to be done in the near future, as his recommendations? Why?

Write down frame and engine numbers. They should agree. Check with local Police Department to make sure bike isn't stolen. You may be able to check maintenance records with original dealer.

Visually assess the bike

Walk around the bike slowly, get into the feeling of the bike’s “vibes” and what you like or dislike about it. Ask yourself if you really like the bike. You will probably be stuck with it for quite some time. There are a lot of articles you can find about suitability of a certain bike, but when you fall in love with the bike, everything goes away. Try to be calm and check the bike like you’re supposed to.

Is the bike clean? Too clean, maybe? Is the bike polished to perfection? A very neat owner or is he trying to hide anything?

My personal tip would be, to try and surprise the seller. Don’t let him polish the bike. If the bike is just a bit dirty (not too much, though), you can see some leaks or damage, you wouldn’t see on a totally clean and polished bike.

Check for immediately noticeable damage. If any exist, try to define how bad it is, check for additional damage, ask how it happened etc. Is the owner willing to fix it before you buy it? How costly would the fixing of the problem be? Write it down, maybe it will be an easy fix and a great price buster.

CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS ANYWHERE ON THE BIKE! Forks, brakes, race bearing, petrol tank, all of the hoses, oil tank, oil seal, rear shocks, everything. Take your time, it could save you a lot of trouble later on.

Check for tire wear and the state of the tires. ARE THEY A MATCHING PAIR?! Are the tires used from one edge to the other? Was the owner a maniac? Are here parallel lines on the rear tire? They point to burnouts. Are they nicely round or are they squared off? What’s the range they will last still?

Lights: do they work? Instruments: do they work?

Ask about frequent service. It should be done at 10.000kms. Where was the service done?

Check the seat hardness, the state it’s in, scratches?

Does the bike have a toolkit and a first aid kit? Is the tool kit all there?

Check if the bike has a center stand.

Check the bike over.

Don’t hurry. Take your time. Here is the part, that you will find if anything is wrong with the bike. Don’t be afraid to get on your knees or even lying under the bike. It makes you look like you know what you’re doing and you can actually see some stuff under the bike, that you normally wouldn’t. People usually don’t think that anybody would lie down to check, so they don’t also.

If the seller claims the bike has never been down, check the lower engine parts, brake and clutch lever ends, handgrips, foot pegs, exhaust pipes, and case guards for telltale abrasions. Make sure the handlebars are aligned exactly perpendicular to the bike longitudinal axis.

Look for missing hardware, e.g., nuts, bolts, brackets, cotter pins.

Check for any scratches or discoloring and/or fluid seepage on the front forks. The upper tubes should be pristine. If the front forks are USD (upside down), the same thing applies to lower tubes.

Block up the engine so the front wheel is off of the ground and check for play in the front forks (grab them and try to move them front to back or side to side. There shouldn't be any play if the steering head bearings are any good. Rotate the forks and check for smooth movement, if you feel bumps or catching, the steering head bearing races may be worn or notched. Be sure the front tire rotates smoothly, doesn't squeak, and is not bent.

Check chain play and adequacy of lubrication of the chain. Look for sprocket wear (clean off a few teeth and check quality of metal finish and symmetry of features). Check for chain wear. And the chain tension.

Check the brakes for sponginess & loose feel. If the bike is more than five years old, the original hoses may be due for replacement. Look for brake fluid leaks at cylinders, calipers, and hose connections. Check fiber pad thickness. Operate brake levers and hold them operated for a while to check for weakening of resistance to the applied pressure.

Check the clutch and brake levers for smooth operation and proper adjustment.

Ask owner if brake cylinder kits have ever been replaced. Some manufacturers like Yamaha recommend installation of new cup seals every two years.

Find out if brake fluid has ever been replaced. It should be replaced at least every two years.

Check for smooth finish of brake discs. Are they thick enough? Are they straight? If you see them bent with just your eyes, run away.

Find out if fork oil has every been replaced.

Pull spark plugs and check for consistency of appearance, dryness, light gray appearance. Make sure spark plugs have never been cross-threaded (look for heli-coil inserts in cylinder head.)

Look at the oil. If it's dirty, you will need an oil change or just forget the bike. There are too many good ones for sale that have had regular oil changes and routine maintenance.

Check the battery box (i.e., the metal platform on which the battery sits) and terminals for corrosion.

Check the screws that secure light lenses (turn, tail) for corrosion. You can usually see this as darkened area in the plastic around the screws.

On bikes with alloy rims and engine parts, look for stains in the metal. If these were caused by exposure to cleaning chemicals like alkaline cleansers, you may not be able to get the stains out.

RIDE THE BIKE

Some people don’t let you ride the bike. BULL SHIT! You never ever buy a bike you’ve never ridden before. Persuade him. If he won’t let you, JUST GO AWAY. He might change his mind and call you back. If he doesn’t, his loss. BUT!

!! Don’t damage the bike, when you test ride it! There can be massive complications if that shit happens. But if you accidentally do crash the bike, BUY IT. It’s the only decent thing to do. You probably only dropped it, right? Some broken plastics and scratches that YOU DID, can be fixed in no time and for a low amount of money. It happens.

So, let’s go on with the riding part of the bike test. Don’t just jump on it and GOOO! No, that’s a bad idea. Again, take your time and do it right. You might learn some things.

Make sure you fit on the bike and that the bike fits the riding you plan to do. Make sure you are strong enough to stand it back up if it falls over. He he, don't actually drop the bike to find out. Try to imagine, right? Make sure you can push it a few blocks in case you have to do this on the road. Make sure you can sit on it and lift it from the stand. If it has a center stand, try putting the bike on the stand, to see if you're strong enough. If you have problems with that, ask the owner, if he has any special tricks. We all do.

Make sure you get to see the bike started cold (so you can verify that it WILL start cold.) After it has warmed up, kill the engine and crank it several times with the kill switch on to see if the battery can handle the repeat loads. Does the exhaust smoke too much? Black, white, blue? Not good. Check with the owner, why. If he says that's normal, he is a big fat liar!

Listen to the warmed-up engine for excessive tappet noise, clutch noise (for Ducati motorbikes dry clutch MUST make a racket), or transmission noise. Make sure the bike will idle at the RPM specified for idle, around 1000RPM. If the bike has multiple exhaust pipes, check that the pressure pulses emitted from each pipe are similar and regular by holding your palms a few inches from the opening to feel the pulses. Does the exhaust smell okay? It doesn't smell of burnt oil? Get off the bike and check around the bike for any major leaks. Turn your attention to the engine oil leaks. Are there any?

Make sure the lights, horns, gauges, etc. all work. Check for proper voltage regulator operation by watching headlight brightness while you rev the engine.

Make sure the bike doesn't pop out of gear under heavy loading in all the gears (especially second gear).

Ride the bike very slowly and do a few tight turns. Look for wobbling in the front end. Check cornering stability at low and high speeds.

Try the brakes. Do they stop okay? Do they lock-up at any point? Do they vibrate, when you brake vigorously? Does the ABS step in at once? Does it even have an ABS? he he

Get off the bike and

CHECK THE BIKE AGAIN

At this point you should check the bike practically the same way you’re supposed to check it at first, but only a bit faster and a bit less meticulous. Turn your attention to all of the hoses, brakes, possible leaks and so on. That’s it.

Buy the owner a drink, comment about the bike, try to reason about the price and that’s about it.

Oh, don’t forget a very important thing: BRING THE MONEY FOR THE RESERVATION WITH YOU!! ABOUT 10% OF THE BIKES’S PRICE!! Don’t be a fool. If the bike is solid, if you’re about to buy it, reserve it!! I’ve had many friends moaning about the great bikes that had slipped from their fingers, for not putting the money on the sunlight at once.

By Jakob

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ena pametna od tebe Jako, po zelo dolgem času ;)

+

lp

Hmmm... hvala za "pohvalo", I guess...

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  • 3 tedne pozneje...

No in kako sem jaz izbrala pravi motor?

V bistvu je moj fant tisti, ki me je popolnoma navdušil nad motorji, sicer sem motorje vedno opazovala in občudovala od daleč, nikoli pa nisem imela priložnosti voziti. Ko je fant nardil izpit in mi dal svojo hornetko za probat, sem bla popolnoma navdušena in tako sem letos opravila izpit. Pol pa je bil čas za nakup motorja. Ker se mi cestaki že od nekdaj neizmerno dopadejo (predvsem honda in ducati, ki pa je cenovno res predrag) pa seveda še milijon drugih stvari (športna drža,...) sem se odločila, da kupim hondo cbr 600 rr. Res je, da vedno pravijo, da cestaki niso za začetnike, ampak men se dopadejo ti motorji in sem vseeno kupila cestaka. Res je, da so me sprva bolele roke, pa tudi v malih ovinkih so cestaki bol nerodni, ampak nebi ga zamenjala za nakeda. Všeč so mi dolgi in hitri ovinki, tud poraba je ok. Ne vem mogoče se drugi z mano nebi strinajli, ampak men je moja hondica zakon, pa čeprav sem še začetnica. Letos sem nardila le 2000 km, tak da nimam še nekih izkušenj pa prakse, ampak se navajam, plus tega drugo leto bom pridno nabirala kilometre :P

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sem se odločila, da kupim hondo cbr 600 rr. Res je, da vedno pravijo, da cestaki niso za začetnike, ampak men se dopadejo ti motorji in sem vseeno kupila cestaka. Res je, da so me sprva bolele roke, pa tudi v malih ovinkih so cestaki bol nerodni, ampak nebi ga zamenjala za nakeda. Všeč so mi dolgi in hitri ovinki, tud poraba je ok.

Rest in peace.

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Rest in peace? Mogoče res za tiste, ki gredo preko svojih zmožnosti, ki tvegajo in izzivajo svojo usodo. Seveda pa vsem želim veliko varno prevoženih kilometrov, saj vsaka smrt motorista je ena smrt preveč. Ampak kot prvo je treba imet nek respect do motora, vzet pamet v roke in imet pamet v glavi, ter si pridobit izkušnje. Jaz kot začetnica se definitivno ne mislim igrat na cesti, pa čeprav mam cestaka :)

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Fora je v tem, da so cestaki dost bol neodpustljivi na napake kot kak naked-pa ne zaradi konjev...predvsem zaradi položaja, ožjega krmila itd., ki naredi v prometu stvari dost bol komplicirane. Govorim iz lastnih neprijetnih in dokaj bolečih izkušenj.... Jst bi ti svetoval najprej kak naked ala er-5, rabljen (ker ti bo tiak verjetno kdaj po tleh padu) , ki ga prodaš po eni sezoni pol pa kupiš sanjski stroj...

Če ti je pa res tolk do cestaka pa go for it...,(CBR zihr bol sexy od er-5 hehe)

Popravljeno . Popravil trojan69
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Rest in peace? Mogoče res za tiste, ki gredo preko svojih zmožnosti, ki tvegajo in izzivajo svojo usodo. Seveda pa vsem želim veliko varno prevoženih kilometrov, saj vsaka smrt motorista je ena smrt preveč. Ampak kot prvo je treba imet nek respect do motora, vzet pamet v roke in imet pamet v glavi, ter si pridobit izkušnje. Jaz kot začetnica se definitivno ne mislim igrat na cesti, pa čeprav mam cestaka :)

Super si povedala in upam da ti uspe. Vendar na žalost tako pove 3/4 začetnikov, vendar jih toliko ne konča tako lepo. Tudi sama boš po par tisoč kilometrih "ugotovila", da "obvladaš" motor in zahtevala vedno več od njega. Tako pač je, brez metanja peska v oči ;)

P.S. ne vzami to kot zlo namerno in srečno vožnjo.

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Živjo!

Ta debata o tem ali je csetak primeren za začetnika ali ni, je stara kot sam svet :rolleyes: Očitno je,da nekega pravila, kakšen motocikel naj kupi začetnik ni.

Res je, da je cestaka malo težje obvladat na začetku, vendar ne vidim zakaj bi to bil razlog, zakaj ga ne kupit. Če nekdo preceni, da to zanj ni ovira in mu je ta stilj motorja všeč, naj si ga kupi. :notworthy:

Do 100 km/h pa itak vsak jajc vleče isto .)

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kolega (27 let star) je letos prišel do mene z idejo da bi imel motor pa prej mislim da nikoli ni imel nič, no mogoče avtomatika.

ko sem ga vprašal kaj bi imel je začel nekaj naštevat "začetniške modele" pa bluzit pa.... skratka nekaj mu ni pasalo. ko sem ga vprašal kaj bi on RES imel je takoj izstrelil R1 in oči so se mu zasvetile. potem je rekel da mogoče pa raje R6 ker je manj divja pa spet nekaj mutil.

skratka povedal sem mu, da je R6 in R1 ena in ista zadeva, da če hoče R1 bo R6 začel prodajat po prvi sezoni z manjšimi zadevami pa ne bo imel veselja ker bo skoz sanjal R1.

skratka v 14 dneh sva malo pogledala in domov pripeljala 2007 R1. evo zdaj se že celo sezono vozi in je zadovoljen in predvsem živ. ni motor, glava je važna.

aja kar ne razumem pa je sledeče so pa tipi ala fant od nataly. naredi si izpit kupi si horneta, ki ni ravno bicikel in ga da za vozit svoji punci, ki nima niti izpita????

svašta! to je bolj neodgovorno kot če si začetnik (po izpitu) kupi kar GP dirkalnik.

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Hvala vsem za nasvete, vsak nasvet je več kot dobrodošel in ga jemljem samo dobronamerno :D Zdaj pr men je bla zgodba taka, ko sem se odločala za motor, sem izbirala med kawasaki Z750 ali pa hondo cbr. V bistvu mi nihče ni priporočal cestaka za začetnico, ampak ko sem šla gledat cbr-ko, sem vidla-kupla-vozla. Nič nisn več razmišljala al naj kupim al ne. Glede er 5 se strinjam, da je bolj primeren motor za začetnico, ampak toti cestaki mene tak vlečejo, da sn enostavno mogla met :D

Pa dam vsem prav, res ni tak okreten kot naked, sploh kaki mali ovinki, pol roke so me tud en cajt bolele zarad drže, ampak men je oni filing ravno taboljši, ko je taka športna drža, pa še hudo men zgledajo cestaki :D

V bistvu je pa pr men tak, da nisn neka taka punca, da bi zdaj šla preko svojih zmožnosti in res ne pretiravam. Men se nikamor ne mudi, je pa res, to kar eni pravite, da te kuj mika, da bi vrei stisnila po gasu, ampak bo že, nem se igrala. Nem pametovala nekaj tu, bom pa vozla po pameti :D

Aja pa še glede tega, da mi je fant dal vozit njegovo hornetko. Fora je v tem, da sva se nekaj časa skupaj vozila in sem ga sama prosila naj še meni da za probat. Itak mi je vse razložo kak pa kaj, pa sva začela počasi in nisva bla nikoli na cesti, ampak imer na parkirišču. Tak, da ni blo zaj to ono, tu maš zaj pa se furaj. Morn pa rečt, da ko sn prišla v avtošolo pa sn vozla kawasakija er 6, mi je blo hornetko dost bolše vozit. Enkrat je treba probat pa nekje začet :D

V glavnem moj prvi motor je cestak, zdaj je pač treba vozit pa si nabirat kilometre pa izkušnje :D

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no,pa bom še jaz kaj napisal.hitrost mi je bila vedno všeč.sploh z avtomobili.od motorjev v mladosti dlje od avtomatika nisem prišel,pa še tega sem kupil za vmes med 1 in 2 avtom za par mesecev.so mi pa bili od nekdaj motorji všeč,a sem imel do njih strahospoštovanje.tam nekje pri 28ih sem sklenil da bi probal narediti ispit.naredil cpp,čakal na prvo vožnjo,pa so ravno sprejeli zakon o podražitvi ur in je vse padlo v vodo.minilo nekaj let in se pred 3 leti pripelje prjatu z rabljenim kle 500 in frišnim ispitom.odločitev pade,gremo znova probat.ker je bilo že v 2 polovici poletja spet kolebam,ali je čas sedaj,ali raje počakam novo sezono.potem bi se mogoče spet ohladil,...grem torej takoj.v avtošoli prvi šok.kar takoj nej vozim er5???probam,in nekako mi rata brez padca.v prvo.pridno nabiram ure,in že razmišljam o motorju,.ker ima kolega kle,razmišljam tudi jaz o njem.in ga najdem skorej novga in se odločim.motor je doma,čakam na izpit.končno dobim knjižico in prvi km se obračajo.grem tudi na avtocesto,a mi pri 150 na uro vse opleta.to ni to,si mislim.čez nekaj dni ima prjatu motor na servisu,gledam razstavljenega v-stroma 650 in mi je zloooo všeč.ponudijo mi testno vožnjo in ja,razlika je očitna,lepše se pelje,hitreje,manj piha ,...in odločitev pade.kle se menja za štroma.dobim ga decembra in komaj čakam pomlad,da gremo malo naokoli.aja,pri nas se vseeno vsaj 70%peljemo v dvoje.motor je super,sicer mojim 175cm malo visok,a ni zelo moteče,tudi na avtocesti se pelje lepše kot kle.nabiram km,a vseeno me začne motiti oddaljenost od tal pri manevriranju v gužvi.grem malo firbec past v trgovino pa majo glih hondo cbf 600 z abs v akciji.se malo v šali gor vsedem in mi zelo prija.ker štrom ni imel abs a in ker mi ponujajo dosti ugodno menjavo se hitro odločim.naročim,in čez 2 tedna jo imam.sicer je zopet september,a do konca leta naberem 3500km.pade tudi relacija v sarajevo.letos se vozim,sem čedaje bolj zvrziran pa mi nekej ne da pa gledam oglase.ker je naši honda kot firma všeč gledam le to.in jo najdem.leto dni staro vfr800a.naj povem da mi je ta motor všeč že kar nekaj let.preberem o tem modelu po forumih,testih in sklenem,da si jo grem ogledat.čeprav imam namen,da najdem napake,ki bi me odvrnile od nakupa temu ni tako.le lepa ,rdeča,...sicer draga,ampak,...hitro se odločim.in jo imam.sicer je pri meni šele dober teden,vreme skoz slabo sem vseeno nekak naredo 50 km za prvi filing.mislim da mi ustreza,...komaj čakam na pomlad.naša pa tudi,

rdeča je njena barva :wub:

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  • 2 tedne pozneje...

Prvi povod da sem dejansko prišel do motorja je bila (na žalost) izguba voziškega dovoljenja za avto (mam pač rad hitrost ;)).

Pred dvemi leti sem izgubil izpit in sem nato nekaj časa stvari opravljal s kolesom (faks, šiht), dokler ni bla ena ful nora akcija pri avtošoli ekspert ;)

Naredim izpit, zdej pa treba še motor dobit-itak. Ker nism bil finančno sposoben, mi je družinski kolega za pol leta posodil svojega kitajskega čoperja 125ccm.

Juhu, vsaj kolesa mi ni treba gont =P

Nato 2 leti nisem vozil nič(predvsem zaradi pomankanja časa), letos pa sem si kupil svoj motor. In sicer Yamaho R6 2000 letnik...zakaj?!

Imel jo je kolega in mi jo je ponujal že kar nekaj časa...testna vožnja pade, počutil sem se odlično in seveda takoj kupil.

21.7 sem jo kupil in do 10.10 naredil malo manj kot 10kkm

Glede na to da sem visok 190, nimam nobenih problemov z držo na motorju (poleti sem si natrgal hrbtne vezi :S ), niti roke me ne bolijo, niti nč =)

Edina stvar ki me je motila na motorju so bile gume - conti road attack (v ovinkih sem rahlo zdrsaval) ampak sem rešil to kar hitro z nakupom novih gum Dunlop GP Racer 211.

Za enkrat menim, da je motor dovolj močan (če sem seveda sam gor) in ne gre kaj kmalu od hiše. Testiral sem tudi druge motorje večinoma nakede ampak mi niso ležali, neglede na to da so precej lažji za obvaldovanje.

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