Dvorana slavnih

Batman je doma

Borutt je dejansko tak v resnici , je pa trd včasih tudi za kakšen drugačen pogled ampak to samo na forumu . Pri osebni tragediji mi je takoj ponudil pomoč in roko , če bi bil res takšen , kot se obkladamo tu gor ne bi on ponudil pomoči in jaz pisal tega . Tudi Dami34 je prijatelj , ki si ga lahko želiš a ima podobne vzgibe , kot zgoraj omenjeni . Tudi jaz imam nebroj slabih "vzgibov" a jih tolerirajo , ker imam tudi nekaj dobrih , kot vsak . Pamet v roke , po cesti se dogajajo res nevrjetne stvari in to tudi zaradi policije , nas vseh in predvsem vrha , ki kroji politiko policistov. Policisti niso krivi za nobeno nesrečo samo so v rokah , kot orodje politiki, ki nas ne želi zaščititi v prometu temveč olupiti .

Je rekel šef, da gre za dva dni v toplice...nisem rabila dolgo da sem spakirala zobno krtačko pa gate v nahrbtnik in odbrnela na jug Do Lošinja je bil plan...vreme ko šus, ceste prazne...na trajektu (proti Cresu) pa sem bila celo edina z motorjem. Jp, en motorist na celem trajektu! ...plus horda štirikolesnikov, seveda Škoda le, da sem imela star rezervni mobi s seboj...slike so bolj slabe... S krajšim bluzenjem sem in tja ter po zarisani poti sem nabrala 600km. 2 dni uživancije, jaz in moj Kawasakič Prespala sem v Martinščici, kjer sem srečala 3 ljudi...tak mir, da težko opišem...morje, večerja, kozarec vina in sončni zahod... nebesa.

Sem uposteval nasvete soforumasev in jo manhil na Plominko... Od doma - AC do Logatca - PO - Ilirska bistrica - Matulji - Plomin - Mosceniska draga - Plomin - Pazin - Novigrad - KP - Viki burger - Logatec - AC do domu skor... Fajn v vecini casa, je pa zivo jeb*nje dokler ne pride clovk od Matulja mim Opatije in do Moscenicke drage.. Dvojni jaski po cesti, omejitev, guzva... Bljak.. No ja, sej je blo OK, sam me vseen po 540 km rit boli... @Ella vidu sm te, k si se peljala mimo parkinga, iz katerga je 1. slikca

Evo tud brez pomfrija ...tenstan krompir s svežo papriko........aja pa rolana pečenka

JKva tolk komplicirate..... mi smo ze dol....

Dans bom doma. Mi ni cist nic vroce. Opozorila me je pa ze zena.

Malca

Si govoril , ko smo štimali MTS ,da je v kurcu vzmetenje. Ko sem ti tumbal da je vzmetenje ok si ti nabijal o preslabem vzmetenju , ko sem ti tumbal o prenizkem motorju in ne o preslabem vzmetenju si spet tumbal o preslabem vzmetenju itd ........ A zdej si pa pameten in bi ti rešil problem z dvigom motorja . A ni preslabo vzmetenje ? In jaz vem o čem teče beseda in ti točno veš tudi a si dobil nek koncept priljubljenega forumaša, ki mu ne prideš do konca tudi , ko mu razložiš , ko pet letnemu fantku ,,,,, Vem ,da se ti tukaj ne boš ustavil , ker pač veš vse in enkrat si celo vozil Tracerja 5km pa si vedel o njem več kot kakšna tovarna , ki ga je skonstruirala ..... Uživajte v MS nebulozah ti pa kot si vajen , ko ti kaj ne paše ......briss , s tem nimam problemov , celo prosim te

Ma ne ohlins, ti tolelele rabiš. Mislim da bo to rešilo tvoje težave..

...kok sem jest srečen člowk...k še nikol nisem nobenih fedrov na nobenem motorju šravfal.... ...krucimuci...ti delaš isto, ko da bi oženu eno najbolj grdo babo...pa še pohabljeno....z eno krajšo nogo....pol jo pa vozu na lepotne operacije...pa še ortopedu noge naštelat... da bi lahko normalno hodila... ..praviš, da nisi pubertetnik, da bi imel SS za od kafane do kafane.... ....aaaaa....štekam zdaj......ti bi rad s tracerko tem mulcem pokazal kako se zares pelje....in to z mopedom...ki laufa samo po treh cilindrih..ki wobla....pa še fedre ima ćist u kurcu... ...a uno poštarsko šajbo boš tut gor dal.... ...sori mogu sm.... malo heca.

Alamut road 3218 m

Joške.........

........

Od vceraj... Sem mislil it tam do Splita, pa sem pristal na Murterju. Ko sem se preobleko pa pir odprl, so pa vsi plani padli v vodo. Zvecer kod Dinka na lignje pa pici domov. Fajn je blo, sam tale Z res rabi ekstra peno za zic.. Tale je pa ratala, ko sem z rokavico po nesreci drzal gumb na sprozilcu, pol je pa Gugl sam nardil animacijo...

Danes teden zjutraj mi pošlje sosed e mejl: jutri gremo proti jugu, 4 penzionisti. Pa smo se ob 7 uri naslednjega dne res odpeljali do Metlike. Tam postaja za kavo, hočem odpreti kufer, ključa ni. Obrnem okoli vse žepe, pogledam v šaro v tanku, nikjer nič. Grem domov, javim kolegom. Ma ne serji, ti bomo mi posodili majco. Dobro, v Mani kupim dvoje gat in se odpeljemo proti Karlovcu, Plitvičkim, Kninu, Sinju. Tam se ustavimo na ulici, kjer poteka Alka, gremo nekaj pojest, pa nadaljujemo proti Splitu. Sonce je zahajalo, bilo je še 28°C, brez zraka v čeladi, v obe smeri kolona. Z eno muko pridemo do Primoštena, že v mraku dobimo super stanovanje, 20€ po glavi. Stari ata mi je dal blagaste copate-natikače, kolega mi je odstopil majico, švic ta dolge gate sem zavihal do kolen in hajd na pivo v mesto, pa še na eno, pa še na eno. Po četrtem je odbila že polnoč, pa smo šli spat. Naslednji dan vožnja na Murter (tam bili vsi prvič), pa do Dinka na pijačo. Prazno, je rekel, da čaka moje sonarodnjake. Potem pa gas do Karlobaga, vmes smo prevozili eno živo radarsko kontrolo brez posledic za nas. V Karlobagu strokovno preverimo, koliko smo obbrusili gume in takat opazim, da nekaj visi na sprednjih vilicah. Pogledam pobliže, najdem izgubljene ključe od kovčka, ki so se 700 km vozili zahaklani za eno cevko. Kakšna sreča!!! Za Crikvenico smo zavili v hrib proti Prezidu, nasproti so nam vozile kolone Nemcev. Na Rakeku tankamo, že v mraku zavijemo na AC, tam pa popoln zastoj do Vrhnike. S polurno zamudo smo prišli do mojega soseda, ki je medtem ohladil pivo, pripravil pa tudi narezek. To je bila tretja zaporeda jesenska tura v Dalmacijo. Za stare prdce za prste obliznit. 1080 km. Nič težav. Na morebitno pošto bomo še malce počakali. Smo pa danes pričakali eno nepričakovano, vzrok napačno parkiranje kombija v Beogradu (30€ kazen, dobrih 70€ postopek).

If he can do it, we can do it ! 41673531_337736630127741_4988908649528164352_n.mp4 Na naslednjem GES pobiramo smeti po Slovenskih trailih/TET-u !

Nc vec lacni.... nc vec zejni....

Ne vem ali se staram, ampak avtocesta včasih pride prav. Pa dajmo reči, da sem jo uporabil zaradi prekratkega dne... Kakorkoli že, za oblizniti Dolomite se, vsaj za nas iz osrednje Slovenije, res najbolj splača pičiti po AC do dobrega izhodišča. Danes je bil to Pordenone... Iz jezera Barcis so se ravno dvigale zadnje meglice... nato pa proti jezu Vajont nad Longaronejem. O žalostni zgodbi nima smisla izgubljati besed. Je pa zadeva impozantna in gmota, ki je zgrmela v jezero nepredstavljiva. Seveda jaz ne bi bil jaz, če ne bi rinil nekam, kamor se sicer ne sme... Po kavi sva se podala proti severu ob Piavi, mimo jezera Cadore... pa potem desno, na Sello di Razzo Malo naprej pa me je zamikal Laverdet. Ne vem zakaj, ampak nekaj je v tistih pentljah... Potem pa naprej pogledat, če je zvonik že padel... Ker sva se čez Zoncolan peljala nedavno, sva šla raje mimo klobuka... Pa potem čez Plockenpass malo v Avstrijo... In čez Mokrine nazaj v Italijo... Tam pa je ura kazala na to, da bo počasi dovolj "žaganja" in da bo treba po liniji najmanjšega odpora proti domu, če želiva zaključiti pred temo. Zato sva jo mahnila čez Trbiž in Kranjsko goro do Jesenic, nato pa po AC do doma. Čudovit izlet in maksimalno dobro izkoriščena septembrska nedelja v vremenu, ki je mejilo na kič...

ja tedva ja.....dejte jima eno travarco naročit pa mi založit pa jest plačam......

A tdva......

Sej pr sosednji mizi sedita..... a ga grem vprasat....

Gasperx, nehi kadit. bo prec en problem mn.

.......in še moj posnetek dirke SSC1000.....sm se trudu a nobenga prehitu

Opustosenje

Dokaži. Ne nabijaj. Ne bluzi. Bo šlo? Električni vodi. Briketi. Karjola...

Ta dogodek je splet več napak voznika (strica s klobukom). Najprej, ni opazil stoječe kolone na voznem pasu. Ni spremljal prometa za sabo; že v avtošoli učijo, da je stalno spremljanje prometa zadaj nujno. Pri C in E kategoriji učijo (oz. so učili,) vsake 3 sekunde je potrebno pregledati vzvratna ogledala in armaturo. Namesto zaviranja na polno je začel z izogibalnim manevrom, brez da ve, kaj se dogaja za in ob njem. Enostavno njegovi refleksi niso več primerni za vožnjo vozila v cestnem prometu. Enkrat sem poslušal Braneta Kuzmiča glede varne vožnje; njegov nasvet bi bil; zaviranje na polno!!!! Žal je tako, da se napake seštevajo in na koncu je tragedija. Motorist je vozil skladno z pričakovanji, da bodo drugi udeleženci upoštevali cestnoprometne predpise. V vsakem primeru je povzročitelj nesreče stric s klobukom, točen potek nesreče bo podan tožilstvu s strani policije, kakšna bo kazen bo odločalo sodišče. Res ne vem, zakaj je potrebno tri dni na polno analizirati tako nesrečo, vsak človek v različnih trenutkih drugače odreagira na kritično situacijo. Lahko je biti general po bitki.

Zima 2014/15 Slikano na Krimu, še zdaj me zebe

Na Korculi je kic

Seveda je drugače. Eno je voznik začetnik, drugo je varna vožnja za B in A ali A2 kategorijo. Pač molzenje denarja od nekoga, ki opravi izpit za motor in mora potem na varno vožnjo. Sedaj za B in A ali A2 posebej. Če bi bilo po moje, bi bilo zastonj in vsako leto. Ker se vse življenje učimo.

Tist je pa še huje, ker si potem na suhem nakaj časa

Ne vem če veš...veterinarji se redko potrudijo z razlago. Obstajata dve obliki NexGard-a. Nexgard in Nexgard spectra. Oba vsebujeta osnovno komponento (učinkovino) Afoxolaner, ki odpravlaj zunanje parazite...(bolhe, klopi). Nexgard spectra pa vsebuje zraven še komponento (učinkovino) Milbemycin oxime, ki deluje tudi na notranje parazite...gliste, srčno glisto (dirofilario), ki jo prenaša komar in, ki je precej pogosta prav v obmorskih predelih. Verjetno je prav zaradi preventive Dirofilarije na obali Nexgard spectra bolj zastopan. Je pa res, da kombinacija teh dveh komponent skupaj (predvsem Milbemycina), lahko v zelo majhnem odstotoku izzove reakcijo, kot si jo opisala. Pri nas na kontinentu bi ocenil, da na 1000 psov pri enem do dveh (realno) pride do podobne reakcije. Težave praviloma same izzvenijo v nekaj dneh. Jaz VEDNO svetujem takole: Če ni eksplicitne potrebe naj ljudje uporabijo klasičen NexGard in NE spectro. Je zanesljiv, ne povroča nobenih težav, hitro in učinkovito deluje. Do sedaj še prav nobene pripombe. V primeru kurative zaradi suma na srčno glisto ali 1x letno po povratku iz dopusta NexGard spectra...VENDAR (in to je POMEMBNO)...ko ga dajejo prvič, VEDNO svetujem naj psu dajo polovičko tablete in drugo polovičko čez 3-4 dni. Če pride do reakcije je tako ta manjša in manj obremeni žival. Osebno pa raje preferiram (v izogib morebitnim težavam) kombinacijo klasičnega NexGard-a in čez cca. 5 dni tabletko Milprazona, ki pokrije vse notranje parazite vključno z srčno glisto. Upam, da je kaj bolj jasno. Kar pa se tiče tvojega primera pa ne vem...lahko, da je odreagiral na Spectro...lahko da je kje kaj staknil. pri nas je relativno dosti zastrupitev, ker imam precej kretenov, ki živalim namerno nastavljajo strup za miši v kakšen košček mesa (že mala doza je zelo nevarna....znaki, pa so zelo podobni tem kot jih opisuješ), ali pa preprosto neodgovorno nastavljajo mišji strup 8posebaj v jeseni) kar povprek okrog hiš ali blokov v mestih...po možnosti brez ograje, ki bi preprečila živalim dostop do strupa. težko je oceniti kaj je vzrok...100 nas je jagode pa uživamo...101 pa bo imel alergično reakcijo... Glede na to, da je že prvič reagiral na Spectro....jaz je ne bi več dajal. Škoda, da ste vztrajali...ni nobene potrebe.

Tud po nesrec se ne nastavlja po obcutku !!! kere buce !!! Sag se ne nastavlja po obcutku, ampak po merjenju staticnega sag-a ( brez voznika) in obremenjenga sag-a ( z voznikom in pritljago, ce mislis motor obcutno oblozit za na popotovanje). How to set suspension sag What is sag? Loaded sag is the name given to the amount of suspension travel used up when the bike settles with a rider on board. To alter the sag you need to adjust how much the springs in the forks and the spring in the rear shock are compressed (also called altering the springs’ tension or altering the pre-load). As a very broad guide a road bike should have 25-30mm of loaded sag at the front and 20-22mm at the rear. Why bother? Adjusting the sag to match your weight will ensure your bike's suspension works in its optimal range. This will improve ride and handling and boost your confidence as well as making the bike safer to ride. Don’t do it if… You are particularly rubbish at very simple maths, or own a bike that doesn’t have pre-load adjustment – you can but it’s very specialised and includes new springs, fork oil and money. Stuff you’ll need A friend, a socket that fits the front fork pre-load adjusters (though some bikes only have facility for adjustment by spanner), and a C-spanner to turn the rear spring’s pre-load ring. Check the bike’s toolkit and if there isn’t one you’ll have to visit a specialist tool shop. You’ll also need a small cable tie, a tape measure, a notepad and a pen. What can go wrong? The worst that can happen is that you get completely confused or ‘lost’ with which way you need to adjust the pre-load. As long as you have an owners’ manual, or have access to the stock settings (dealer can supply), you can revert to standard and start again. Anything else? This guide shows you how to set sag for a solo rider. If most of your riding is two-up or with luggage, you’ll need more pre-load at both ends (especially the rear) to compensate. 1. Before you do anything, check that the bike is on stock suspension settings. Second-hand bikes are particularly likely to have been mucked around with. Revert to the settings given in the owners’ handbook, or from a dealer. The reason for this is to have a solid base setting to start from to reduce the chance of confusion. 2. Starting at the front of the bike, fit a cable tie around the slider part of one fork leg (the chromed bit). With the aid of a friend, pull the bike over on its sidestand to lift the front wheel clear of the ground so the suspension ‘tops out’. Slide and butt the cable-tie against the fork seal. 3. On upside-down forks (pictured) measure the distance between the fork seal and the point where the slider joins the lower casting (the mount for the wheel spindle and brake caliper). Note the measurement and call it ‘A’. On conventional right-way-up forks measure from the fork seal to the underside of the lower fork yoke instead. 4. Sit on the bike in your normal kit and riding position while a friend balances it (without applying force up or down). The cable tie will move as the forks compress. Measure from the fixed reference point on the casting to the top of the cable tie (or on right-way-up forks, from the bottom of the tie to the fixed point on the yoke). Call this distance ‘B’. 5. Your sag value is simply A minus B. If you have too much sag, say 40mm, you need to increase the fork tension/pre-load by turning both pre-load adjusters in/clockwise. Start by increasing pre-load one turn on each adjuster and then repeat the measurement procedure until the ideal sag figure is achieved. 6. To measure the rear suspension’s sag, lift the rear of the bike until the rear wheel is off the deck. Measure vertically from the centre of the rear wheel spindle to a fixed reference point on the chassis. On the ZX-10R used here we used the bottom of the bungee point. Make a note of measurement ‘A’. 7. Again sit on the bike as if riding normally. The bike has to be supporting all your weight to get an accurate measurement, so feet must be on pegs. Try parking next to a wall and balancing yourself with an elbow while your pal does the measuring. Again measure from the centre of the spindle to the fixed reference point for measurement ‘B’. 8. Subtract measurement ‘B’ from measurement ‘A’ to get the rear sag figure. Now it’s just the simple matter of adjusting the amount of pre-load on the rear spring (or springs if it’s a twin-shock set-up) and re-measuring until A minus B is in the right range. More pre-load will reduce sag, less pre-load will add to it. 9. Rear pre-load adjusters can differ, but the principle is the same – by reducing the length of the spring you increase the tension in it. On the ZX-10R you need to use a C-spanner to slacken off the upper locking ring first. More often than not, it’s easier to use a hammer and drift to crack it loose. 10. Back off the locking ring by hand to give more access to the adjusting ring. Fit the C-spanner to the adjusting ring and turn clockwise to increase the pre-load, or anti-clockwise to reduce it. Adjust by one to two turns at a time then re-check the sag. Go steady as C-spanners are notorious for slipping off. 11. Once you’re happy with the sag figure, tighten the locking ring to the adjusting ring, being careful not to move the adjusting ring while doing so. Two C-spanners are ideal, otherwise hold the adjuster ring with the C-spanner and get your friend to tap the locking ring against the adjuster with a drift and hammer. 12. Push up and down on both ends of the bike to ‘settle’ the springs and re-check the sag figure. Take the bike for a test ride to assess the improvement in ride quality. If you haven’t been able to get the sag figure you desire then the chances are different springs (with a harder/softer spring rate) are needed from aftermarket suspension specialists. ____________________________ Suspension Setup 101 Part I: Setting Sag Pity the motorcycling newcomer. On top of acquiring an acceptable machine, learning to ride it and dividing one's attention between actually operating the bike and keeping errant cars and trucks from dealing death blows out on the mean streets, newbies must also eventually deal with the arcane and often-confusing subject of suspension tuning. Powered By Ooooh. The words alone strike terror in even the most seasoned riders. Forget such involved concepts as spring rates, preload, compression and rebound damping. Newcomers are likely to take one look at the bewildering array of knobs, clickers, nuts and screws on today's sportier motorcycles and simply ignore the whole thing. Which would be a mistake, of course, because the simple truth is that proper adjustment of your motorcycle's suspension can make a huge difference in the way your bike handles--and how well you're able to ride it. Race Tech's (www.race-tech.com) Paul Thede has dealt with dirt- and streetbike suspension modifications for nearly two decades, and his take is this: "Proper suspension setup is key to riding fast and safely. [Your bike's suspension] requires proper adjustment to work to its maximum potential. The cool thing is, suspension tuning isn't rocket science."He's right. Basic suspension setup isn't overly difficult, especially if you take things one stage at a time. And stage one in the quest for a well set-up streetbike suspension is to dial in spring sag--that is, the distance the fork and shock compress with a rider aboard (laden) compared with the fork and shock fully extended (or unladen). Step one is to determine your fork and shock's fully extended (unladen) measurements. To do this you'll need to get both wheels off the ground, though not at the same time. On bikes with sidestands, the front wheel can be raised relatively easily by rocking the bike over on its stand and raising the front end; this is much harder to do with the rear wheel, but it can be done if the person doing the raising is both strong and coordinated. Centerstands make raising the rear wheel simple, though an underengine stand (or a sidestand) will be necessary for bikes lacking them. For the back wheel number, measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis using a tape measure; metric figures are easiest and more precise. A graphic point on the sidepanel or the bottom edge of the panel itself work well as reference points. Be sure to mark the exact points you used because you'll need to refer to them again. Record this measurement on a notepad next to the notation marked "R, unladen." Up front, extend the fork completely with the wheel in the air and measure from the wiper (the dust seal between the shiny slider and textured stanchion) to a point on the bottom triple clamp (or the lower fork casting on an inverted fork). Record this measurement next to the notation "F, unladen." Now you're ready to record the same two measurements with the fully outfitted rider on the bike (these would be the "laden" numbers). Ask a buddy to hold the front or back of the bike while you get settled, and have a third person (preferably the one who took the unladen measurements) record the laden numbers front and rear. Mark these as "R, laden" and "F, laden." Subtract the laden front and rear numbers from the unladen front and rear numbers and bingo!--you've got your two sag numbers. Thede likes to work with 30-35mm of sag on streetbikes, 25-30mm for racebikes. Your numbers will likely be higher than these (a softer ride), in which case you'll want to increase spring preload on the shock and/or fork. If your numbers are less than these (a firmer ride), try reducing preload a bit. Adjust things until the measurements fall within acceptable parameters. You'll have to remeasure after making the preload changes, of course. Remember, there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with slightly less or more sag than these guidelines, no worries. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on various factors, including chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection, rider weight and/or riding style. Next month we'll turn our attention to rebound and compression damping. 1 of 2Doing a decent job of measuring and setting spring sag means drafting a few friends to help. Be sure you're wearing all your gear when taking measurements; measuring spring sag without a stand will be easier as well.

Borutt je dejansko na vasi strani, a ne dojamete.

sem popravil v pravilno slovenščino

Tole je videti super. Me ja pa na letšnjih poteh po Jugi, Madžarski, Avstriji, Italiji že prav motil pomfri. A bi lahko za spremembo kaj drugega. Na Madžarskem so napr. pompozno napovedali njihove narodne jedi in dobili smo pomfri, cela Dalmacija turi pomfri. Svetla izjema je Kremenko blizu Omiša, kjer sem jedel njihov spešl tenstan krompir. Kremenkota toplo priporočam. Vse malo po svoje ampak odlično, plus ambijent.

če si pa v Mostarju lačen...ti pa ni pomoči

Sem se mislu peljat,pa se gre očitno Črni...grem kuj nazaj v postlo...

Rea 2 X KAWA PAWA

Bihać Banja luka Travnik ... se nadaljuje

Danes malo do akomulacijskega jezera nad Kanalom. Vzpon skozi gozdiček potem na planoti sami Krawasakiji In potem..no prav lepo